臺灣餐飲老店 Long-established Restaurants in Taiwan

說起馬祖，想起什麼？極富戰地特色的北海坑道和八八坑道、號稱馬祖漢堡的繼光餅，或者是用陳年老酒烹煮的老酒麵線？有趣的是，很多在這裡住過、或到過馬祖玩的人都說，他們最想念、最推薦的是一家簡樸的麵店。

萬家香二店是馬祖南竿的知名老店。店裡只賣狗麵（家常麵）及餛飩湯，馬祖因為地緣關係，很多當地小吃的名字、口感和調味都和臺灣不一樣，連名稱都易起誤會。狗麵跟狗肉無關，是福州話中的棍麵，意思是用棍子擀出來的麵，扁肉則是餛飩的意思。萬家香第一代的祖父是從福建過來的，他做的料理口味自然也是福建家鄉特色，第一代祖父一開始便是擔著扁擔，在馬祖賣餛飩起家的。

目前已經傳至第四代，製法和口味卻與第一代無異。第四代的陳梅蕙說：「狗麵就是要吃手揉及棍子擀出來的嚼勁。」狗麵的麵條特別粗，麵粉用大骨湯汁和麵，再經過數小時揉打擀壓，相當耗真工夫。不僅口感札實，口味也跟本島的面不一樣。上桌時，粗麵條上是木耳、紅蘿蔔、榨菜、珠蔥、青菜，吃的時候麵條愈嚼愈香，慢慢散發出麥香，不僅恍然大悟，這為何是許多遊客懷念的馬祖口味。

Many people associate Matsu not with the Beihai Tunnel, 88 Tunnel, Jiguang Cake, or the old-wine noodles but a simple noodle shop. 

Wang Jia Xiang is a famous old store in Matsu Nangang. The store sells only “homemade noodle” and wanton soup. Matsu offers different local fish due to geographical cause. The rolled noodle means noodles rolled up. Wang Jia Xian has inherited the flavor from Fujiang hometown.

The restaurant is now passed to the 4^th generation. The manufacturing and texture is the same as the first generation. Fourth-generation Meihui Chen mentioned that “noodles offer handmade and chewiness rolled by mast.” The noodles rolled up are particularly thick. The flour is mixed with bone broth and after few hours of beating and rolling. When serving on the table, the rolled noodles taste the same while many customers recall. 

狗麵與擀到薄可透光的餛飩皮

除了狗麵，經許多媒體與遊客稱讚的餛飩湯，厲害在薄可透光的餛飩皮，迎著光看這薄薄一片餛飩皮，簡直像紙一樣薄。店裡目前由陳梅蕙的父親陳開發擀麵、壓餛飩皮。每次他壓餛飩皮都要四到五小時。陳梅蕙說：「機器還是無法取代手工，因為手工可以掌控力道，想壓多薄就壓多薄，所以我們的餛飩皮薄如衛生紙。」

萬家香的餛飩個頭小，一碗餛飩湯的分量是傳說中的「餛飩比湯多」，鮮美的肉餡加了黑胡椒，跟臺灣五香粉口味不同，家常湯麵的湯頭則是用大骨和蛤蜊慢熬，清爽鮮甜，一口餛飩一口湯，吃完滿身舒暢。

在快速變遷的時代，萬家香二店因為地處偏遠，反而能將職人精神貫徹到底。來馬祖遊玩，在海邊遙望臺灣海峽，在巷子裡晃晃悠悠，發思古之幽情，然後吃一碗職人專注數小時擀出來的麵，令人感動的口感與滋味。曾幾何時，我們要吃一碗這樣的麵成為奢侈，這或許是萬家香二店的麵條令人魂牽夢縈的原因吧！

Rolled noodle and transparent wanton wrappers

Other than the rolled noodles, Wanton soup is also mostly praised by media and tourist. It takes the father of Mei-Hui Chen to press wanton wrappers for 4~5 hours.” M-Hui mentioned that machine could not replace manual work since manual work can control the strength for the thinness of paper.” Wang Jia Xiang’s wonton is small while the portion is served with more soup than wanton. Fresh filling is added with black pepper and different from Five Spice Powder. The broth in average family is stewed over pork bones and clams.

Wang Jia Xiang has thoroughly implemented the philosophy of expert in a fast-changing era now. Eating a bowl of noodles after 4~5 hours of rolling now becomes luxurious. This is why the Wang Jia Xiang noodles become so popular.

招牌套餐(乾麵+餛飩湯)，愈嚼愈香的乾麵，配上皮薄餡多的餛飩湯，吃麵喝湯，日常麵食帶來極大滿足感。

Wang Jia Xiang Chef’s Set (dried noodles + Wanton Soup): Delicious dry noodles and wanton soup is a satisfying combintaiton for daily meals.

米粉湯，馬祖的米粉口感近似米線，味道很特別。配上酸菜、榨菜、紅蘿蔔絲，清爽可口。

Vermicelli soup: The vermicelli soupd in Matsu tastes like rice noodle with speical taste. Refreshing and delicious with preserve vegetable and carrot julienne.

涼拌酸菜脆腸，這也是一道臺灣本島少見的涼拌菜，酸菜佐脆腸，香辣脆兼具，非常適合配酒。

Preserve vegetable and crunchy intestines: This is also a rare aapteitizer in Taiwan. Preserved vegetables with crunchy intestines are delicious and excellent company to drinking.