臺南小吃名聞遐邇,其中有一味很特別,那就是鱔魚意麵。外地遊客來到臺南沒吃鱔魚意麵,就像去嘉義沒吃雞肉飯一樣。但臺南遊子在異鄉若泛起鄉愁,深夜想吃一碗熱呼呼的炒鱔魚意麵,可就難受了。
幸好,臺南老店「阿輝炒鱔魚」老闆許全輝,年輕時曾在臺北工作,特別能體會遊子的思鄉情,選在臺北開了分店,每天從臺南直送新鮮鱔魚和虱目魚,滿足台北人的胃,也一解臺南遊子的鄉愁。
阿輝炒鱔魚成立至今二十多年,已是臺南人生活記憶的一部分。阿輝的父親許蔭是總鋪師,在以前是個傳奇人物,他曾跟福州師傅學炒鱔魚,雖然傳授給許全輝,但阿輝說:「當時不想接,因為覺得很辛苦。曾當過業務,做過進出口事業,後來還跟人去中國,賠了錢,轉了一圈回來還是做吃的。」幸好如此,才有今天的阿輝炒鱔魚。
阿輝在1992年回到臺南後,在公園路開起「阿輝炒鱔魚」第一家店,他將父親從福州師傅學來的醬汁,改良成接近現代的口味,請教過一些老師傅後,不停實驗,他的炒鱔魚逐漸打出名聲,口感爽脆,醬汁酸甜滋味在口中交融,吃過一試成主顧。
One of the famous Tainan snacks is eel noodles and most tourists must try it when they come to Tainan.
Ahui’s Eel has been founded for more than 20 years and is a part of the life and memory in Tainan people. Although Ahui’s father was a catering chef and used to be a legendary icon, he once studied stir-frying eel with a chef in Fuzhou. Ahui did not want to study and did business with others in China. Eventually he lost money and returned to work in the eel business.
Ahui opened the first “Ahui Eel” by Gongyuan Road after he returned to Tainan in 1992. He has improved the sauce learned from the Fuzhou chef into modern taste.
累積二十年功力的炒鱔魚
這道菜得用大火快炒野生鱔魚,炒鱔魚重鑊氣,短短二十秒快炒,可是累積了二十年才有的功力。吃完炒鱔魚意麵,再來一盅用鱔魚和川芎、甘草等數10種中藥材熬製一整天的藥燉鱔魚,這是名媛何麗玲來店裡必點的養生湯。
店裡的招牌菜還有乾炒鱔魚、藥燉鱔魚湯,以及上過臺灣十大小吃的麻油腰花,全都是道地臺南滋味,臺北店為了適應臺北人口味,將原本偏甜的口味稍微調整。只是為了在地這兩個字,阿輝說:「也不能變太多啊。」香港知名老饕蔡瀾就曾對阿輝說過,改變太多就失去自己特色了。
阿輝說,經營餐廳二十幾年來,有許多酸甜苦辣,但他覺得不懂就要變,變才能通。為了做菜自己也請教過很多人。既然要做,就全力以赴,要不斷持續不斷更新。可能因為這麼拚命吧,阿輝代表臺南小吃去過新加坡、澳門,香港,以及北京展現好手藝。他一心希望將臺南小吃帶到國際。歡迎你來到「阿輝炒鱔魚」吃一碗台南滋味。
Accumulating 20 years of eel stir-fry skills
This dish requires stir-fry wild eel over high heat, which takes more than 20 years of experience and skills.
The dry eel, herbal eel soup and others are authentic Tainan flavors. Ahui insisted not to change to much of flavor as he wants to maintain the feature of his cooking.
Ahui mentioned that cooking requires variation and full efforts to constantly upgrade. Ahui has competed in Singapore, Macau, Hong Kong and Beijing on behalf of Tainan snacks. He wishes to introduce Tainan snacks to the world.
乾炒花枝油麵,小卷嫩Q鮮甜,油麵滑順,搭配特製醬汁,在口中形成美妙交響樂。
Stir-fry squid and noodle: The squid is chewy and sweet while the noodle is smooth, forming a wonderful combination with the special sauce in the mouth.
乾炒鱔魚意麵,大火快炒鱔魚後,放入加了百年老店純米醋的高湯,慢火熬煮至少兩個鐘頭。
Stir-fry Eel noodles: Stir fry eel over high heat, add broth with pure rice vinegar to cook for at least 2 hours over low heat.
麻油麵線,麵線吸飽麻油,吃起來非常香。麻油量多,但一點都不油膩,中和了鱔魚的甜,兩者非常對味。
Sesame Oil Noodle: The noodles absorb sesame oil and is very delicious. The amount of sesame oil is not greasy, which neutralizes the sweetness of eel.
地址:臺南市西門路二段352號
電話:06-2215540
營業時間:周一至周日11:00~凌晨01:00
周邊景點:天壇、赤崁樓、海安路藝術造街、大天后宮、陳世興古宅
特色:鱔魚意麵
網址:http://www.tainanahui.com/html/front/bin/home.phtm...
交通:國道1號下仁德交流道沿182線道直行接民權路、青年路、民生路右轉西門路;或臺南火車站沿成功路直走左轉西門路步行約18分鐘。
ADD: No. 352, Sec. 2, XImen Road, Tainan City, Taiwan
TEL: +886-6-2215540
Business hours: Monday to Sunday 11:00~01:00am
Peripheral Sites: Altar, Chikan Tower, Haian Road Artistic Street, Great Tianhou Temple, Chen Shi-Xing’s Ancient Residence.
Features: Eel noodles
Website: http://www.tainanahui.com/html/front/bin/home.phtml
Transpiration: Take National Highway No. 1.Get off Rende Interchange. Take 182 Provincial Highway and go straight to Minquan Road, Qingnian Road, Minsheng Road, and turn right to Ximen road; or Take Chenggong Road from Tainan Train station and go straight to turn left to Ximen Road. Walk for 18 minutes.
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