「燒肉粽啊,燒肉粽」,這是鹽水第一家肉粽店,阿婆朱秀鸞開粽店的起心動念,單純是為溫暖飽足深夜回家的孩子與辛苦人的心。阿婆的粽子就像無名的招牌,為歸人引路。阿婆的孩子李聰明少時在外地讀書,每回想起家鄉深夜裡的粽影,就感念媽媽對家庭與遊子的付出,這便是鹽水肉粽黑色LOGO的由來。
阿婆肉粽在鹽水無人不曉。許多人凌晨兩三點都要來吃顆肉粽再回家,有時來了十幾二十人阿婆忙不來,客人還自己動手,這都是鄉下特有的人情味。但隨時代更迭,純樸的鹽水古城也漸被商業競爭所衝擊,李聰明捨不得母親好手藝因年邁失傳,毅然與妻子相偕回鄉,運用行銷專長,傳達阿婆用食物傳遞的溫暖初心,再度喚回古早的人情記憶。
李聰明說:「大家看到的是招牌,我看到的是家鄉、是品牌。」如今鹽水肉粽從網路迅速竄紅,各大百貨均有銷售,全台灣人都吃得到了。不僅如此,更延伸各式商品,意圖將鹽水特產推廣出去;聘用在地無法就業的阿嬤、新住民婦女協力;最後目標,是希望鹽水青年返鄉紮根,再現鹽水風華。
“Hot rice dumplings! Hot rice dumplings!” This is the first rice dumpling store in Yenshui. The motivation for Zhu Xui-Luan (A-Po) to open a rice dumpling store was simply to give warm to children and hard-working people going home late. Her rice dumplings are like a nameless shop sign directing people to go home. Whenever recalling the rice dumplings in his home late at night, Lee Cong-Ming, Ms. Zhu’s child, is full of thankfulness to his mother for taking care of the family and the children. This is the origin of the black LOGO of Yenshui rice dumplings.
A-Po Rice Dumplings are famous in Yenshui. Many people come to have a rice dumpling before going home. Because of the change of the time, Yenshui has greatly impacted by commercial competition. In order to reserve her mother’s recipe, Lee Cong-Ming went back to his hometown with his wife, and employed his specialty in marketing to advocate her mother’s original intention to give warm to people and to recall the memory of the affection between people in the early time.
“What people see is a shop sign, but I see hometown and brand,” said Mr. Lee. Now Yenshui Rice dumplings are popular on the internet and sold in many department stores. In addition, in order to promote Yenshui’s specialties, he invented diverse commodities. He also employs the jobless old women, and new residential citizens in Yenshui. His final goal is to encourage the youth to return to Yenshui and make Yenshui prosperous again.
柴火老灶,新舊滋味兩相宜
鹽水肉粽榮獲台南市傳統美食與伴手禮、台灣粽四大通路總冠軍、台南百家好店等殊榮。李聰明說,純手工當日生米現製南部粽,是品牌特有的堅持。例如機器洗粽葉較難乾淨所以全手工、餡料如魷魚膜也要用手撕去口感才會好。更重要是比快速爐花加倍時間,使用傳統爐灶柴火慢工細煮。
古早味肉粽採五花肉、香菇、花生、蛋黃加油蔥拌炒,生米也以醬汁拌過再包,老手藝混搭完美比例,肉香、米香、與粽葉香化為一體,真吃得出阿婆「把人客當作自己囝仔」的心意。另研發創意口味,如干貝海鮮粽,快火炙烤鎖住干貝鮮甜,獨家醬料拌炒魷魚與蝦米入餡,僅端午節預約限定;還有府城八寶粽,美食家張麗蓉大讚「料多銷魂」,是最能代表臺南的人氣伴手禮。
「讓鹽水漸被遺忘的故事與人情重新被喚醒。」所以,倘若你來鹽水,不妨問問在地,鹽水肉粽是什麼滋味?或許他會告訴你,當年被大家暱稱為二姐的阿婆所包的肉粽,也真像二姐(江蕙)的歌聲,那樣地撫慰思鄉人心呢。
New Firewood with a New Kitchen, Combination of Old and New Taste
Yenshui Rice Dumplings won Tainan City’s traditional gourmets and gifts award, the championship of Taiwanese rice dumplings selling in the four channels, and the top one hundred restaurants. Li Cong-Ming said that we insist on making our dumplings by hand every day.
As eating the typified rice dumplings, people can feel A-Po’s intention—seeing customers as her own kids. In addition, other creative flavors are invented such as Scallop Seafood Rice Dumplings, the limited product in Dragon Boat Festival only, and Tainan’s Eight-Treasure Dumplings, a representative of Tainan’s popular gifts.
五穀迷你粽,用五種穀類,結合香菇和瘦肉為內餡口感豐富。
Mini Five-Grain Rice Dumpling (dried mushrooms and lean meat as its fillings).
府城八寶粽,美食家張麗蓉大讚「料多銷魂」,是最能代表台南的人氣伴手禮。
Tainan’s Eight-Treasure Rice Dumpling: the fillings were praised by Gourmet Chang Li-Rong as “rich and enchanting,” the representative of Tainan’s popular gift.
頂級干貝海鮮粽,以快火炙烤鎖住干貝鮮甜,獨家醬料拌炒魷魚與蝦米入餡,僅端午節預約限定。
Prime Scallop Seafood Rice Dumpling. Roasting scallops to keep them freshn and sweet. Frying squids and dried shrimps with our unique sauce as the fillings. Limited product in Dragon Boat Festival only.
古早味肉粽,採五花肉、香菇、花生、蛋黃加油蔥拌炒,肉香、米香、與粽葉香化為一體。
A-Po’s original flavor: a typified rice dumpling with meat. Frying pork belly, dried mushrooms, peanuts, and yolks with fried scallions; the fragrance of meat, rice, and bamboo leaves melting with one another.
Address:No.104, Chaoqin Rd., Yanshui Dist., Tainan City 73746, Taiwan (R.O.C.)
Tel:06-6530285
Opening:Sunday ~ Monday 10:00~20:00(Official Holiday: Wednesday)
Surrounding attractions:Ciaonan old street, Yuejinkang water part, Yongcheng theater, Octagonal Building, Yuejin Culture and History Development Association, Xiudebai Pavilion
Features:Tainan city’s eight treasures rice dumplings, A-Po typified rice dumplings, Rice dumpling with peanuts and salty bamboo leaves
Website:http://style-culture.tainan.gov.tw/food/index-1.php?m2=20&id=171
Transportation:National Highway No.1 à Hsinying Interchangeà Fusing Roadà turn right to Hsinyi Roadà Chaoqin Road; Yenshui Train Stationà Wenwu Streetà turn right to Chaoqin Road and then walk for 10 minutes
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