臺灣餐飲老店 Long-established Restaurants in Taiwan

碗粿是流行於華南、臺灣的米製小吃，將糊化的米漿置於碗內蒸炊成形而得名，有鹹的也有甜的。鹹口味又分為兩種，一種是白碗粿，蒸熟後才將配料放在碗粿上；另一種是直接在米漿裡放入配料一起蒸熟，例如臺南碗粿，據說延平郡王（鄭成功）就很愛這道庶民小吃。

早期臺北人對臺南的碗粿非常陌生，現在想在臺北吃道地的臺南碗粿，老饕多半指名萬華這一家，「小南鄭記」從叔公祖那一代繼承而來的口味，到現在六、七十年沒變過。1970年爺爺鄭椅祿從臺南帶著家傳手法來到北部打拼，剛開始騎著腳踏車在龍山商場叫賣，如今不但已傳承四代，還在臺北開了五家分店。靠著口耳相傳，不只臺南人吃了有想家的感覺，像文英阿姨、蔡閨等老一輩藝人也成為主顧，還有不少日本客人很喜歡這一味呢！

傳統的臺南碗粿做法並不複雜，但很講技術。老闆娘姚穩媺說：「婆婆那一代有半桶師學會一點功夫就跑出去開，招牌跟我們很像，但結果口味完全不行，為了維護老店『堅持傳統用料實在』的形象，我們只好申請專利商標，讓客人有所識別，以免打壞臺南碗粿的信譽。」

Rice cake is a rice snack popular in South China and Taiwan. It is made by steaming rice milk filled in a bowl. It has salty and sweet flavors. The salty rice cake is divided into two kinds: white rice cake, of which ingredients are topped on a rice cake; the other is made by steaming rice milk with ingredients together in a bowl such as Tainan’s rice cake.

People living in Taipei were unfamiliar with Tainan’s rice cake in the past. Now in Taipei, the authentic Tainan’s rice cake can only be found in “Shiaonan Zhengji” in Wanhua. In 1970, Zheng Yi-Lu went to Taiwan with the inherited skill of making rice cake from Tainan. At the beginning, he riding a bicycle to peddle rice cakes in Longshan market. Until now, there are five branches in Taipei.

The way of making traditional Tainan’s rice cake is not complicated but requires skills. “In the past, there was an apprentice who opened a store without acquiring the full skill of making a rice cake and used a sign board similar to ours but the taste was bad.” In order to maintain the image of our store, “maintaining the tradition and using the best ingredients,” we applied for a patent trademark, preventing the reputation of Tainan’s rice cake from being spoiled,” said the owner, Yao Wen- Mei.

吮指回味的法寶在獨家肉燥

臺南碗粿將糊化的在來米漿倒入碗內，加入蝦米、瘦肉、蛋黃、香菇、肉燥等，再放進蒸籠炊蒸即可。但關鍵在於不斷攪拌以防焦黏，手腳要很快，一次六十幾碗必須十分鐘左右完成，否則就不Q不好吃了。吮指回味的秘訣在裡面的獨家肉燥，讓整碗碗粿呈淺褐色，據說真正在來米漿做成的碗粿中央是凹陷的，才會熱嫩冷Q。

虱目魚羹在臺南又叫「浮水魚羹」，因為湯很清，魚羹煮熟會飄浮在上面。南部加薑絲，而且較甜，北部人吃不慣，所以改用香菜、蒜泥，甜度也經過調整。虱目魚羹配碗粿，小南鄭記幾十年來單靠這兩樣好味道就發達了，生意十分興隆。

「傳統的食物很厚工，怕吃苦的人不想學，想學的學不到精髓，若無人繼承，我們就賣到這一代賣不動為止。」老闆娘語重心長地說，純手工技術全靠老經驗，機器無法取代，從頭到尾要花四、五個鐘頭製作，一天再多也只能做八百到一千碗，所以賣完為止。但為了讓懷舊的人繼續吃到臺南家鄉的滋味，他們會忠誠地守護這項古老的祖傳手藝，讓美味長遠流傳。

Unique minced pork as the magic weapon

Tainan’s rice cake is made by steaming rice milk in a bowl with dried shrimps, lean meat, egg yolks, dried mushrooms, minced pork. The key lies in continuous stirring of the rice milk to prevent it from condensing. The tasty minced pork makes the rice cake light brown. It is said that if the middle of a rice cake is sunken, the rice cake will tender and springy.

Thick Milkfish soup in Tainan is also called “Scalded Milkfish Ball Thick Soup.” Because the soup is clear, the scalded milkfish balls will float on the soup. The soup will be added sliced ginger and sweeter so people living in the north are not used to eating this flavor. Therefore, we change to use parsley and smashed ginger, and modify sugariness. Thick Milkfish Soup with Rice Cake makes the business of “Shiaonan Zhengji” thriving.

The hand-made skill depends on experience and cannot be replaced by machines. It costs four to five hours to make all rice cakes. But in order to let people eat the taste of Tainan hometown, we will preserve this ancient skill and hand down this delicacy forever.

碗粿，加入蝦米、瘦肉、蛋黃、香菇、肉燥四種好吃內餡，配上肉燥原汁熬煮的油膏，口感跟滋味都很豐富。

Rice cake：minced-meat paste with dried shrimps, lean meat, egg yolk, dried mushrooms, and minced pork, the four delicious ingredients, makes the texture and taste rich.

虱目魚羹，這裡的做法採用新鮮虱目魚肉加昂貴的旗魚漿，清甜不腥口感好。

Thick Milkfish soup: it is made by blending fresh milkfish with sailfish paste; it tastes clear and sweet.

地址：臺北市萬華區西園路一段216號

電話：02-23060935

營業時間：周一至周日11:00~23:30（除夕公休）

周邊景點：龍山寺、剝皮寮歷史街區、華西街觀光夜市、艋舺清水巖祖師廟

特色：臺南碗粿、虱目魚羹

交通：環河快速道路下萬大路交流道左轉和平西路三段；捷運龍山寺站步行約1分鐘。

Address：No.216, Sec. 1, Xiyuan Rd., Wanhua Dist., Taipei City 10855, Taiwan (R.O.C.)

Tel：02-23060935

Opening：Monday to Sunday 11:00~23:30（Official holiday: the Chinese New Year’s Eve）

Surrounding Attractions：Longshan Temple, Bopiliao Historic Street, Huasi Street Tourist Night Market, Meng Jia Qing Shui Yan Zu Shi Temple

Features：Tainan’s rice cake, Thick milkfish soup

Transportation：Peripheral expresswayà Wanda road interchangeà turn left to 3^rd section, Heping West Road; about 1 minute walk from MRT Longshan Temple station