臺灣餐飲老店 Long-established Restaurants in Taiwan

日本美食節目中，只要打出「漁人料理」幾個字，往往會引來來賓和觀眾瘋狂驚呼。因為這代表內行中的內行、有錢未必吃得到。東港就有一家餐廳，由船長當主廚，所有食材不僅是當天捕獲的「現撈仔」，還經過漁人嚴選直送。到底有什麼奧秘，可以每天都有最頂級的海鮮？

佳珍海產老闆蕭受發綽號「落腳仔」，是南臺灣出了名的toro船長，長年海風烈日下，皮膚像黑鮪魚般閃亮，小學畢業便開始「討海」，直到1992年關島遭遇颱風沉船才思考轉型，向臺東開餐廳的舅舅取經。

1994年佳珍海產正式營業。憑二十多年船長經驗，蕭受發既有辨識新鮮魚貨的眼力，也有一群長年配合的漁家，專門供應嚴選野生海魚或清晨船釣鮮魚。獨門管道讓佳珍海鮮比誰都更新鮮。蕭受發笑說：「很多人來佳珍，就是衝著我是船長，我對漁獲很內行。」

The guests and audience on Japanese TV programs usually go crazy when the cooking is about seafood cooking because it means that the seafood is the finest and not something that can be bought with money. There is a one restaurant in Donggang where the captain is the chef and all ingredients that freshly caught every day and delivered by fishermen directly. So what’s the secret to the prime seafood every day? 

Jiazhen Seafood Restaurant owner Shou-Fa Xiao is a famous toro (tuna) captain in southern Tainan who gained dark skin over many years of working on the sea. He has involved in sea business since graduation from elementary school and started thinking about transformation after his ship sank in the ocean in 1992. He then studied from his uncle opening a restaurant in Taidong. 

Jiazhen Seafood Restaurant was open in 1994 and owns many fish experts who have worked with Xiao for years due to his ability to identify fresh seafood. He can offer the freshest seafood than any others and he said: “Many people have come to my restaurant because of I am good at seafood.”

總統們都來吃他的黑鮪魚

說到海鮮食材，蕭受發眉飛色舞。他說：「黑鮪魚要一年四季都能讓客人吃得到，我們店裡都是用零下七十度保鮮，要將一年的貨源調配好。」而且為了讓人吃到最鮮美、油脂最豐富的黑鮪魚，佳珍「五月便採買完，七月就不買了。因為七月鮪魚油脂不夠好，所以我們品質很好。」對於海鮮鮮度的堅持與專業，吸引了世界各國老饕前來。李安、馬紹爾總統、吐瓦魯總理、歷屆總統都是蕭受發的座上客。

被問到特色料理，蕭受發馬上神秘地說，是一道有五六十年歷史的老菜「蜂巢蝦」。蜂巢蝦的作法和備料就像炸蝦球，蝦料上先裹粉，再淋上蛋汁，用濾網過濾，下油鍋炸。這道菜作法繁複，眉角又多。火候非常重要，裹粉的技巧也講究，油鍋中的油更要新鮮，缺一便容易失敗。

除了蜂巢蝦，黑鮪魚當然是蕭受發的得意料理。佳珍的黑鮪魚料理得過東港黑鮪魚創意菜第一名。蕭受發說：「當時得獎的料理是用黑鮪魚跟油魚子、芒果組合，現在店裡的菜色又經過改良，已經將芒果換成香蕉，因為香蕉也是屏東產品，搭配起來，口味很適合。」

此外，清脆富嚼勁的無眼鰻和傳說中的「那個魚」小鰭鎌齒魚，都是佳珍特殊料理，不能錯過。蕭受發有討海人的純樸，也有船長的豪爽。佳珍的海鮮料理，吃得到內行的鮮甜，也吃得到船長主廚的質樸。

Bluefin tuna that even the presidents like

Xiao was very excited and said: “To eat Bluefin tuna all year round, you will need to allocate a year of resources in advance under minus 70 degree Celsius.” To provide the Bluefin tuna with the richest fat, Jhiazhen would finish purchasing by May and stop purchase by July. “The fat on tuna in July is not good enough and so we have good quality.”

The special “Beehive shrimp” of Jiazhen is prepared by coating the shrimp with flour, followed by drizzling egg mixture with a filter to deep fry into beehive shape, which is a dish over 50 years of history and very difficult to prepare.  Jiazhen Bluefin tuna is also awarded with the first place in Donggang Bluefin tuna creative dish. The Xiao said: “The award winning cuisine bluefin tuna goes well with oil fish roe and mango. The mango is now changed to banana since it is also specialty of Pingtung.”

黑鮪魚otoro，長年合作的漁夫將最好的黑鮪魚留給佳珍，油脂分布如雪花，入口即化，非常奢侈的味覺饗宴。

Bluefin Tuna (otoro)” Fishermen who have worked with the restaurant over the years always save the best Bluefin tuna for the restaurant. The fat is evenly distributed in the tuna and melts in the mouth. It is a highly luxurious feast.

蜂巢蝦，考驗廚師的功夫菜。作法繁複，眉角多，火候也重要，裹粉技巧講究，炸油更要新鮮，缺一便容易失敗。

Beehive shrimp: The dish is a test for chefs with the complex approaches, know-how, and also the heat. The coating requires skills while oil needs to be fresh, and the lack of either one will result in failure. 

櫻花蝦玉飯：採用櫻花蝦大王陳春朝的櫻花蝦，紅蝦配上青蔥，看起來像春天的櫻花樹，吃起來香氣撲鼻。 

Cheery shrimp with rice: Using the cherry shrimp of a reputable shrimp vendor, the red shrimp plus chives resemble the cherry blossom trees in spring with strong aroma.

酥炸那個魚：傳說中的「那個魚」是小鰭鎌齒魚，酥炸來吃是東港人的私房菜。

Deep-fried Harpadon microchir: Deep-fried Harpadon microchir is a homemade dish of Donggang people.