臺灣餐飲老店 Long-established Restaurants in Taiwan

人稱府城的臺南，傳統菜色淵源流長，從早到消夜，不同時間想吃各種小吃甜點，幾乎都吃得到。也因為這樣，愛吃懂吃的臺南人當然對於當地小吃很驕傲，要想在臺南經營川菜達數十年，生意興隆高朋滿座，勢必得經過一番嚴格考驗。臺南老字號的榮星川菜，就是這麼一家連挑剔的臺南人都讚好的川菜館。

第一代梁茂財是在 1974 年創立榮星川菜，當時出身自「今日川菜」的梁茂財因緣際會頂下隔壁店面，然而白手起家的廚師要跟已經做出口碑的老東家比臨競爭，並不容易。一開始接手經營的的榮星經營的很辛苦，第二代梁耿榮回憶：「我爸當時特地上臺北找朋友討論，並和許多廚師大師傅討教，慢慢找到自己的特殊點，之後生意才漸有起色。」

這特殊點就是融合臺南在地食材，賦予傳統川菜新生命。例如，傳統的臺南炒鱔魚在榮星川菜變成川菜中的宮保做法，將鱔魚裹粉炸到酥香，再加入青蔥蒜頭嗆出香氣，大火爆炒，絕對會讓已經習慣甜甜炒鱔魚口味的人驚喜不已。另一道老式菜餚改良的芋泥酥鴨方也不能錯過，外型看似精緻的甜點鳳梨酥，實則為香噴細緻的鹹點，鴨子整隻蒸熟撕成細絲，與大甲綿滑鬆香芋頭泥融合一起，是榮星費工費時的手路菜，而且一塊才四十元，是許多客人必吃的招牌菜。

Tainan’s traditional dishes have a long history. People in Tainan are proud of their local food ingredients. If someone intends to run an Sichuan restaurant in Tainan, he must overcome a trial. Ronghsing Sichuan Restaurant is praised highly by critical Tainan’s people.

The first generation, Liang Mao-cai, established Ronghsing Sichuan Restaurant in 1974. Mr. Liang, originally working in “Jinri Sichuan Resturant,” bought a store beside Jinri Sichuan Restaurant.” However, to competed with Jinri Sichuan Restaurant was not easy. “My father often came to Taipei to see his friends and asked many chef for advice. Gradually, he found his specialty and the business became better.” The specialty is to integrate Tainan’s local food ingredients, giving a new life to traditional Sichuan cuisines.    

Sauteed eel with Nuts and Chili changes the recipe of traditional Tainan’s fried eel. Eel is coated with flour and fried to be crunchy and then stir-fried with scallions and garlics, which surprises Tainan’s people accustomed to the traditional flavor. Fried duck with smashed taros, another newly-improved dish, cannot be missed. The appearance of the dish is like a pineapple cake. The whole steamed duck is torn into shreds and accompanied with Dajia’s taros. It is a time-consuming secret recipe. Each piece only costs NT$ 40.

豆花牛肉結合在地與傳統

招牌豆花牛肉則是以安平豆花取代傳統的豆腐，淋上辣豆瓣醬，滑嫩的豆花與牛肉異常合拍，冒著熱氣，香氣四溢，香辣可口，令人一口接一口。煙燻龍鱈魚則是用白米、白糖和茶葉燻烤鱈魚，老菜式新口味征服饕客味蕾。此外，梁耿榮的母親也是一手好手藝，曾以自己親手做的醃蘿蔔得到2011年府城十大伴手禮，吃飯煮麵加一點便能為整桌菜畫龍點睛。

目前接手經營的第二代梁耿榮解釋自己求新求變的動力：「除了爸爸一直堅持的創新思維之外，也是因為經營三十幾年，老顧客始終捧場，所以除了傳統口味，也想給老客人新菜色嘗鮮。」臺南人重視人情，經營餐廳也經常要照顧到老顧客的喜好。以創新作法和口味走出自己的路，榮星川菜依然會持續在傳統與在地之間，找到最美妙的結合方式，研發出更多令人拍案叫絕的菜餚吧！

Tofu Pudding Beef Combines Local Culture and Tradition

Tofu Pudding Beef is made from Anping tofu pudding topped with thick broad-bean sauce. Smooth and tender tofu pudding and beef are perfectly matched. Smoked Chilean Seabass is made by smoking seabass with rice, white sugar, and tea leaves—a new dish with new taste. Liang Geng-Rong’s mother is also a master of cooking. The pickled turnip was awarded as one of the top ten Tainan’s gifts in 2011.

Liang Geng-Ron, the second-generation operator, said, “Besides my father’s insistence on creativity, customers’ encouragement and expectation push me to create new dishes for them.” People in Tainan have strong affective bonds. When running a restaurant, customers’ preferences shall be considered. Creating a new flavor, Ronghsing Sichuan Restaurant will find a perfect way to combine tradition and local culture and make a dish surprising its customers!

子薑鵝胸片，採用當季嫩薑，加上蒜頭和豆瓣醬等配料，與無骨鵝胸片大火快炒後置入砂鍋，下飯配酒兩相宜。

Sliced Goose Breast with Ginger: Using the seasonal tender gingers, garlic, and think broad-bean sauce to fry with boneless sliced goose breast and then putting all stuff into a pot. It is delicious to go with rice and wine.

芋泥酥鴨方，招牌老菜「芋泥酥鴨方」，手工製作手路菜。大甲新鮮芋泥和絲狀鴨肉完美組合，口感驚喜，不能錯過。

Fried Smashed Tora with Duck: the hand-made signature dish, the perfect combination of Dajia’s Tora with duck shreds, marvelous taste and cannot be missed.

豆花牛肉，以傳統豆花取代豆腐，將細嫩牛菲力醃過加上花椒、乾辣椒、花生爆香，以豆瓣醬調味煨過燜燒。師傅獨門創意菜。

Tofu Pudding Beef: using tofu pudding to replace tofu; pickling Filet Mignon with pepper, dried hot pepper, and fried peanuts and muffling it with thick broad-bean sauce. The chef’s creative dish.

宮保鱔片，將新鮮鱔魚片裹粉炸過，與乾辣椒、蔥段同炒。滋味微辣香酥，是師傅的推薦拿手菜。

Fried Eels with Chili and Nuts: frying eels coated with flour and stir-frying them with dried chili and scallions. It tastes a bit spicy and crunchy. Recommended by the chef.