【官記五香臭豆腐 Guanji Stinky Tofu】連老外也愛，不再怕怕的 Even foreigner love this dish－臺灣餐飲老店 Long-established Restaurants in Taiwan

臭豆腐可說是中華料理中相當獨特又奇妙的食物。一方面老外「聞」之色變，令它榮登「世界十大最臭食物」排行榜；另方面老中卻喊著越臭越香、越臭越好吃，連宮廷都愛這品街頭小吃，將之封為御膳。傳說慈禧（一說康熙）將臭豆腐賜名為「青方」，取其「色青形方」之意，親民的市井美食遂也文雅起來。　臺南位於花園夜市必經之處有家「官記五香臭豆腐」，他們的臭豆腐竟能讓避之唯恐不及的老外趨之若鶩，不禁讓人對它的口味充滿好奇。

於1962年創立的官記，原位於民族路赤崁樓邊，後輾轉搬至現址海安路。第一代老闆官家培早年任職亞航，是廚房領班，結識一位身懷祖傳臭豆腐秘技的飛官，原本這名高人想在台灣落地生根，退休後自行開店，沒想到適逢台海關係吃緊，覺得賣臭豆腐的計畫無望，於是將臭豆腐之藝，傳授給官家培。

官家培也不簡單，這門生意一賣五十幾年，第二代官重光也將官記經營得有聲有色，尤其燒烤為其專長，碳烤臭豆腐幾乎每桌必點，成為他接掌後的獨門特色。

Stinky tofu is a unique and special food that most foreigners are scared of. It is ranked in the “world’s top 10 stinky food” while Chinese people claim it to be delicious and fragrant.

The Guanji Stinky Tofu located in the Garden Night Market of Tainan on contrary attracts the foreigners and makes one wonder about its taste.

Previously located next to Chikan Tower and then relocated to the current Haian address, the first-generation Jia-Pei Guan studied stinky tofu from the aero force officer.
Guan has been operating the business for 50 some years while the second-generation Zhong-Guang Guan also elaborated with skills in roasting. Roasted stinky tofu is nearly ordered for each table and becomes his unique feature.

Guan has been operating the business for 50 some years while the second-generation Zhong-Guang Guan also elaborated with skills in roasting. Roasted stinky tofu is nearly ordered for each table and becomes his unique feature.

有如東方美人茶韻的臭豆腐

官重光說，臭豆腐原是華中以北的小吃，泡菜也是北方的做法，但在大陸並不這麼配著吃，是老兵隨國民政府撤守台灣後，無意間將香酥與酸甜適配出來的台灣吃法。「坊間的臭豆腐多八公分四方，炸後中間戳洞，但宮廷吃法比較斯文，會切小塊，剛好一口一個，我們也是這種作法。」

官記臭豆腐迥異於坊間的奇臭無比，使用漢方草本浸泡八至十小時，天然發酵的味道，是老外也能接受的原因。他說：「我們的生臭豆腐是青綠色，比一般香又有彈性，入口有如東方美人茶韻，滋味會慢慢回甘……那是連我都說不出的感覺。」

這裡的烤臭豆腐也跟一般先炸後烤大不相同，直接以生豆腐燒烤，料理時反覆塗上特調醬汁，上桌後依舊水嫩，用筷子即可撥開，盤緣有青蔥、蒜泥、豆辦醬、泡菜，可隨個人喜愛搭配食用。

各式各樣的臭豆腐料理在這裡幾乎都是招牌菜，清蒸臭豆腐、蔥爆臭豆腐、臭豆腐火鍋、麻辣臭豆腐火鍋、臭豆腐煲、麻辣臭豆腐煲、臭豆腐冷盤……相信慈禧駕到，也要為此絕倒。

Stinky tofu with the flavor of oriental beauty tea

The stinky smell comes from the immersion in herbal medicine for 8~10 hours. The natural fermentation is the reason for foreigners to accept. He said: “our stinky tofu is green, more fragrant and flexible than the average stinky tofu that tastes like the oriental beauty tea for a long-lasting taste that even I could not describe.”

Guan mentioned that stinky tofu is a central Chinese snack while pickled vegetable follows northern approach. It was the veterans retreating to Taiwan discovering that stinky tofu goes well with pickled vegetables before developing Taiwanese eating style.

Roasted stinky tofu is directly roasting of raw stinky tofu and repeated coating of special sauce. The tofu is still supple when served with green onion, garlic paste, fermented bean paste, and pickled vegetables.

There is the chef’s tofu soup cooked with turnip, seaweed, oily tofu, intestines, and peanuts.

坊間炸臭豆腐八公分四方，中間戳洞，但宮廷比較斯文，切小塊剛好一口一個，官記也是這種作法。

Compared with other deep-fried stinky tofu offered by others, Guanji cuts the stinky tofu in small blocks suitable per bite.

蔥爆臭豆腐。

The figure shows fried stinky tofu.

五香臭豆腐。

Streamed, stir-fry, hot pot, cold assorted food, stinky tofu casserole.

地址：臺南市北區海安路三段69號

電話：06-2211333

營業時間：周一至周日16:00~00:00（周二公休）

周邊景點：赤崁樓、海安路藝術造街、開基武廟、三山國王廟、烏鬼井、大天后宮

特色：炸臭豆腐、烤臭豆腐、清蒸臭豆腐

信箱：axw13671035@yahoo.com.tw

交通：國道1號下仁德交流道沿182線道直行接民權路、青年路右轉公園路再左轉成功路至海安路；或臺南火車站沿成功路直走右轉海安路步行約20分鐘。

ADD: No. 69, Sec. 3, Haian Rd., North District, Tainan City, Taiwan
TEL: +886-6-2211333
Business Hours: Monday to Sunday 16:00~00:00（Closed on Tuesdays）
Peripheral sites: Chikan Tower, Haian Artistic Street, Kaiji Martial Temple, Sanshan Kin Temple, Wuguei Well, Great Tianhou Temple
Features: deep-fried stinky tofu, roasted stinky tofu, steamed stinky tofu
Email: axw13671035@yahoo.com.tw
Transportation: Take National Highway No. 1, get off Rende Interchange and take 182 Route to directly connect on Minquan Road. Turn right from Qingnian Road and turn right at Chenggong Road to get on Haian Road; Or take Chenggong Road from Tainan Train Station, go straight on Chenggong Road and turn right to walk along Haian Road for about 20 minutes.