愛河,是所有到高雄的旅人必遊之地,它也是所有高雄人成長的記憶,這裡曾經有位「愛河之女」,從小在愛河畔長大,不忘本的她,以「河邊」為名,一路艱辛走來,如今已是年營業近十億的集團董事長。
她,就是張素鑾。在餐飲界,張家可謂一門豪傑,從阿嬤推攤車賣麵線糊,到爸爸、叔叔當總舖師,她更自少女就開起小吃店,幫愛河邊的魚販代客料理,曾有「米粉西施」封號。從一碗愛河邊的烏魚米粉開始,1968年創業至今,一路馬不停蹄地擴張,開餐廳、賣咖啡、辦團膳、開發伴手禮,甚至參予政府文化事業、幫助在地蕉農、扶持弱勢……腳步從未停歇。所有理念全數源自一句話:「食,就是『人』的『良』心事業。」
近來,河邊餐飲集團又風風火火地成立台灣第一家「便宜坊」烤鴨餐廳。張素鑾說,從小看著圓環老飯店烤鴨出爐,蔓延整條街的香氣,是幸福的記憶。為了將這份美好記憶重現,她將六百年歷史的國家級非物質文化遺產「便宜坊」原汁原味地搬到高雄。
Love River is the must-visit site for tourists to Kaohsiung and it is the common memory of growth for all Kaohsiung people. The chairman of Her Bian Food & Beverage has named the group as Her Bian (riverside).
Chairman Su-luan Zhang started operating snack shop, Bian Yi Fang, since little and she has been expanding business since 1968, including opening restaurant, selling coffee, catering, developing souvenirs, and participating in governmental cultural business, helping local banana farmers, and helping the disadvantaged. The chairman upholds to the concept of “food is the conscious business of people.”
Recently the group has established the first roasted duck restaurant in Taiwan. The chairman recalled the happy memory of seeing the roasted duck coming out from the oven of old restaurant and the fragrance spread to the entire street. To reproduce good memory, she has relocated the 600-year-old national non-material cultural relics, Bian Yi Fang, to Kaohsiung.
聽音樂的鴨子,燜爐的蓋世美味
「便宜坊」原意為「方便宜人」。明朝永樂年間(1416年)創始,是北京唯一燜爐烤鴨店,別於掛爐風味,完全不見明火,當鴨子破封而出,皮酥肉嫩,呈現蓋世的美味。自古「南爐便宜坊,北爐全聚德」,一般觀光客多知悉全聚德,而老北京多嗜吃便宜坊。
高雄便宜坊花了近六年的時間引進,由第二十代傳人白永明跨海指導,參考台灣各地契養的北京鴨種,鴨場還給鴨子聽音樂、看表演,以保證品質味道跟創始店一般無二。「烤鴨宴」共十二道,包括烤鴨、掌上明珠、乾燒鴨四寶等,加上乾隆及慈禧最愛的三種宮廷御膳甜點,相同菜色在北京據說要價新台幣一萬多元。
除六百年歷史風味的招牌烤鴨外,單品推薦酥炸香蕉鴨、麻辣鴨筋、糊辣金鑽石斑魚。想在南台灣體驗北京胡同風情的饕家們,到了高雄千萬別錯過來一場便宜坊的宮廷美味。
身材嬌小,為人卻豪邁又海派,凡是事必躬親,且特別照顧員工,是跟隨張素鑾多年的工作夥伴對她的形容。儼然,她已成為員工的典範,並令我們相信,在她的帶領之下,河邊集團所有的餐飲與服務,品質理當值得信賴。
Ducks that listen to music, an overwhelming delicacy of roasted duck
“Bian Yi Fang” originally meant convenient. It was the only roasted duck store in Beijing in 1416 with crispy and tender meat that is unparalleled in this world. Northern Chinese mostly eat at Bian Yi Fang while southern Chinese at in Quanjude.
Kaohsiung Bian Yi Fang is directed by 20th generation Yong-Ming Bai who considers the Beijing duck type in Taiwan and provides music and performance for the duck to guarantee the same taste as the original store.
Apart from the roasted duck with 600 years of history, other recommendations include deep-fried banana duck, spicy duck tendon, and spicy grouper.
麻辣鴨筋,Q彈有勁,辣度過癮卻清爽,越嚼越香越涮嘴,入圍高雄下酒菜網路人氣獎。
Spicy duck tendon: Chewy, spicy but refreshing. Awarded with Most Popular Kaohsiung tapas for wine.
酥炸香蕉鴨,金黃餅皮包裹與秘醬交融的上選鴨肉,還帶香蕉微甜果香。
Dee-fried banana duck comes with golden crust and drizzled with secret sauce, added for a touch of caramelized banana taste.
糊辣金鑽石斑魚,花椒香配上酥脆軟嫩口感,醬汁是鳳梨與荔枝等當令水果莎拉,帶來絕妙的多層次味蕾體驗。
Spicy Grouper: Sichuan pepper and crispy texture. The sauce is made of pineapple, lychee and other fruits in season to bring wonderful and multi-layered taste.
燜爐別於掛爐風味,完全不見明火,皮酥肉嫩。一般觀光客多知悉全聚德,而老北京多嗜吃便宜坊。
Oven roasted differs from hanging taste without seeing the fire. The skin is crispy while the meat is tender. Most tourists know Quanjude while Beijing gourmands eat at Bian Yi Fang.
地址:高雄市鼓山區蓬萊路23號
電話:07-5612258#10
營業時間:周一至周日10:00~22:00
周邊景點:駁二藝術特區、高雄港港史館、打狗鐵道故事館、打狗英國領事館官邸
特色:台菜海鮮料理、台灣伴手禮、外燴辦桌、健康素食、北京便宜坊烤鴨、旅遊團餐、創意遊艇婚禮、團膳餐廳等。
交通:捷運橘線西子灣站走臨海路方向步行約7分鐘。
ADD: No. 23, Penglai Road , Gushan District, Kaohsiung, Taiwan
TEL: +886-7-5612258#10
Business Hours: Monday to Sunday 10:00~22:00
Surrounding attractions:The Pier-2 Art Center, Kaohsiung Harbor Museum, Kaohsiung Railway Story Museum, British Consolate at Takou
Features: Taiwanese seafood cuisine, Taiwanese souvenir, catering, healthy vegetarian, Beijing Bian Yi Fang roasted duck, tour group meals, creative yacht wedding, and catering restaurant.
Website: http://www.herbian.com.tw
Transportation: MRT orange line and get off Xiziwang Station, walk in the direction of LInghai Road for about 7 minutes.
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