臺灣餐飲老店 Long-established Restaurants in Taiwan

坐小火車上阿里山，等著看日出是很多人的童年記憶，雲霧氤氳，氣溫低冷的山上，食物彷彿特別好吃，此時若能吃個排骨便當，配一口烏龍高山茶，這滿足難以說明。

阿里山森林鐵路興建於1904年，1912年正式通車。早期功能以載運木材為主，也是山地居民上下山及運輸生活物資的主要工具，奮起湖車站是阿里山森鐵中途大站，一來火車需要保養維護補給，工作人員與乘客也需要用餐，此地地位和位置相形重要，衍生出很多就業機會。登山食堂林志忠的曾祖父，就是在這時來到此地鐵路旁，無攤無店地賣起包子肉粽小吃……。

喜歡火車、感念火車帶給自己許多的林志忠是登山食堂第四代，談起阿里山森林火車史，他感觸良深地說：1950年代，阿里山開放觀光，國人出門旅遊和外國遊客來臺觀光，必到阿里山，也必搭森鐵小火車，因此乘客之多，連站的地方都沒有，當時奶奶一手好廚藝，正好可以派上用場，便開始擴大經營店面。一旁的媽媽回憶起五十年前在沒有月臺的火車窗下賣湯麵的趣事。林志忠笑著說：「媽媽那一代都是用端盤端個五、六碗麵，沿著火車窗下叫賣，常常稍一不注意，麵湯便淋個滿頭......而且客人常常來不及在發車前吃完，媽媽只好跳上車跟著到下一站多林，收齊了瓷碗再搭下一班火車回來。」

Many people have taken the train to get on Alishan and waited to watch sunrise in childhood. The low temperature and cold weather makes everything taste particularly good. Eating pork rib lunch and sip some oolong tea is very difficult to describe.

Alishan Forest Railway was built in 1904 and opened in 1912. The early function included carrying cabin and the main tools for the mountain residents to get on/off mountain as well as to transport livelihood supplies. The grandfather of Dengshan Food Owner Zhi-zhong Lin came to the railway and sold seam bun, rice dumpling and snacks without booth or store.

Zhi-Zhong Lin is the fourth-generation of Denshan Food and becomes sentimental when walking about the history of Alishan forest train history. He said that the opening of Alisha for tourism, foreign and domestic tourists visiting here must take Alishan Railway. The grandmother is expanding business and mother recalled selling noodle and soup under train window without the platform. 

產地到餐桌零距離，每口都是當天現採高冷蔬菜！

登山食堂位於奮起湖火車站左側出口，供應的便當全用當季當地食材。招牌便當控肉燉轎篙筍，用的是只生產於奮起湖的轎篙筍。配菜則全用阿里山高冷蔬菜如夏秋的龍鬚菜、春冬的高麗菜和大碗豆等，特別爽脆甜美。若多加四十元內用，還能享有山筍湯，冬瓜山粉圓和阿里山高山茶。登山食堂的便當奇妙在於，即使外帶也不怕米軟爛，冷著吃依然粒粒分明，別有一番風味。

從林志忠身上和登山食堂點餐風格，處處可見阿里山鐵路文化。點菜後的領餐牌設計成有紀念價值的古早火車票，幾乎每一款便當都附有早期車種及鐵道員名稱，軟燒肉便當是「列車長」，桂花茶葉滷雞腿便當是「機關手」，香炸排骨便當則是光復特快，此外，他還自己開發製作，印上登山食堂字樣的火車頭販售……登山食堂的便當吃起來特別有早期臺灣人開墾山林的人情味！

Zero distance between place of origin and dining table. Vegetables grown in high land and picked daily 

Dengshan Food is located on the left exit of Fengqihu Train Station. The lunch boxes use local ingredients in year all year round while the chef’s pork and bamboo uses the bamboo from Fengqilake. The side dishes all use Alishan Cold vegetables. 

Alishan railway culture is seen on Zhi-Zhong Lina and Dengshan Food style. The meal collecting badge is now designed into commemorative ancient trail tickets while nearly all lunch boxes come with early car model and railway employee’s name. The soft braised pork lunch box was designed for conductors 
Zhi-Zhong Lin loves the culture of Alishan Railway and his food taste like the flavor of early Taiwanese people reclaiming the forest. 

招牌桂花滷雞腿便當，口味清爽、雞腿分量大。即使過了一段時間也不怕米飯軟爛，冷著吃依然粒粒分明。

Lunch box: Refreshing and big portion of chicken thigh. Rice stays separate after putting aside for some time.

香炸排骨便當，排骨便當全臺都有，這一款特別有阿里山小火車古早味，十幾種阿里山當地當季蔬菜當配菜，排骨滷得香味撲鼻。

Pork rib lunch box: Pork rib lunch box is avaialble  all over taiwan but this one comes with the flavor of Alishan train, consisting of some tens of vegetables in season and grown locally in Alishan as side dish. 

地址：嘉義縣竹崎鄉中和村奮起湖168號

電話：05-2562666

營業時間：平日10:00~18:00，假日10:00~19:00（無固定公休）

周邊景點：奮起湖風景區、奮起湖老街、奮起湖杉林步道、糕仔崁古道、奮起湖車庫

特色：五香炸排骨、桂花茶葉滷雞腿、軟燒肉、炒山豬肉、控肉燉嬌篙筍、苦茶油雞等

交通：國道3號中埔交流道出口沿臺18線上山至石卓左轉169縣道車行5公里至奮起湖；或搭臺灣好行阿里山線至奮起湖站。

ADD: No. 168, Fengqihu, Zhonghe Village, Zhuqi Township, Jiayi County, Taiwan

TEL: +886-5-2562666

Business Hours: Weekday 10:00~18:00, Weekend 10:00~19:00（no scheduled days off ）

Peripheral Sites: Fengqihu Scenic Area, Fengqihu Old Street, Fengqihu Forest Trail,  Gaozikan Old Trail, Fengqihu Garage

Features: Pork Rib, Tea Braised Thicken Thigh, Braised Pork, Stir-fry Wild Boar, Braised Pork and Bamboo Shoot, Bitter tea oily chicken

Transportaiton: Take National Highway No. 3, exit from Zhongpu Interchange and take 18 Provincial Highway, head up the mountains and turn left at Shizuo, turn left to 169 County Highway in 5KM to arrive to Fengqihu. Or take Taiwan Tourist Bus Alishan Route to Fengqihu stop.