有沒有某家店是你一吃之後,每隔一段時間就必定要回鍋再吃一次,甚至午夜突然想起那滋味,恨不得現在馬上飛奔而去? 位於臺灣偏遠的台東鹿野,就有這麼一家讓人去了還想再去的餐廳,有客人為了吃到合菜,邀了十個人專程從新竹搭火車來吃中飯,然後當天吃完飯直接坐火車回去。還有人下了飛機上網搜尋,直接從小港過來用餐。更別說經常有國外的客人專程而來。田媽媽傅姐風味餐到底有什麼魔力,讓這麼多人蜂擁而至?

傅錦英看起來就像個手藝極佳的媽媽,本是苗栗客家人,原本只是嫁到臺東跟先生一起做茶,但製茶有季節性,她閒暇時便想,何不結合當地和當季的食材,做出好吃的料理? 1982年傅錦英開始經營餐廳 ,之後加入農委會的品牌田媽媽,其中傅姐風味餐因為位居臺東鹿野,便結合原住民和客家菜,採用臺東一年四季盛產的食材來做創意料理。做出一點成績後,她加入農委會的品牌田媽媽,這是農委會輔導臺灣各地餐廳,目前全省有一百三十一家田媽媽,而每一家都有不同的特色。

Is there some restaurant that you must go back every now and then after you have tried it?  There is one restaurant in remote Luye, Taidong County that draws customers to take train from Hsinchu just to have a meal. Some customers even come directly from Xiaogang, Kaohsiung after getting off the plane. Not to mention some customers traveling overseas. So what is the magic about Mother Tian’s Ethic Meals?

Fu is a mother with excellent culinary skills who was previously from Miaoli Hakka but was married to Taidong to work in the tea business with her husband. However she often thought of combining local ingredients in season to prepare good cuisine since tea making business is seasonal. In 1982 Jing-Yin Fu started running restaurant and worked with the brand of Council of Agriculture, Mother Tian. In particular Fu’s ethic meals are fused with aboriginal and Hakka dish, using ingredients grown in Taidong all year round to make the creative cuisine. 

融合原民與客家,一口接一口的媽媽味

臺東到底有那些季節食材和特色呢?傅錦英說:「剝皮辣椒啦,七月盛產鳳梨、台東茶園的紅烏龍茶,當地原住民的山豬肉等。」剝皮辣椒三味香就這樣成為田媽媽傅姐風味菜招牌,這道菜只是用剝皮辣椒配著皮蛋和香菜,但吃起來又絕頂美味,夏天吃非常開胃。

不能錯過的風味菜還有金沙養生南瓜、玉米雞、烤山豬肉等。一整套的茶料理中,有紅烏龍入味的東坡肉、紅烏龍脆脆蝦,還有傅錦英結合客家手法,改良原住民料理的阿粨,「先將五花肉、香菇、菜脯、香蔥爆香,再用月桃葉包起來蒸,當時就是靠這道和烤山豬肉,得到原住民創意料理獎。」

如果您想嘗到傅姐的茶料理的好手藝,請至少在兩天前預約。傅錦英說:「紅烏龍性溫和,要入味較難,事前得先將茶泡開,再視不同的菜色做不同運用。」

儘管遊客趨之若鶩,吃了必定回來再吃,但傅錦英說希望一直能變出新料理。有空就會到處走走看看,有哪些食材可以加入翻新。每個好廚子心中總有驅策自己前進的動力,對傅錦英來說,她的動力就是客人的熱情吧! 

Aborigine and Hall fusion style of mothers’ homemade cooking

What are the ingredients in season and features in Taidong? Jing-Yi Fu mentioned: Peeled chilies, pineapples in July, red oolong tea from Taidong Tea Garden, and wild boar pork of local aborigines” Peeled chilies has since become Mother Tian’s ethnic meal. This dish consists of peeled chilies, preserved egg and cilantro that taste absolute gorgeous, a highly appetizing dish in the summer.

Do not miss the ethnic dish such as health pumpkin with salty egg yolk, corn chicken and roasted wild boar. A complete set of tea cuisine consists of Dongpo streaky pork braised with red oolong, red oolong crispy shrimp, and Jing-Yi Fu’s Hakka skills that improve the A-Bai of aboriginal cuisine. A-Bai and roasted wild boar pork have been awarded with aboriginal creative cuisine.

Please make reservation in 2 days in advance to try Fu’s cuisine. Fu said that “oolong is mild and difficult to season. The tea needs to be brewed in advance and be applied with different methods depending on the dish.”

Even though there are many guests who become loyal customers, Fu insists in preparing new cuisine and would travel around to study which ingredients can be added for innovation. All chefs are motivated by their own inspiration and for Fu, her biggest motivation is probably the passion of customers. 

紅烏龍茶蝦,傅姐開發的創意茶料理,結合紅烏龍茶和鮮蝦,香酥可口。

Red Oolong Tea Shrimp: Creative tea cuisine developed by Fu that combines the red oolong tea and fresh shrimp with a crispy and delicious taste. 

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剝皮辣椒三味香,剝皮辣椒、皮蛋和香菜,看似不搭的食材組合起來卻異常對味,簡單清爽的開胃菜。

Peeled Chilies: Peeled chilies, preserved egg and cilantro, are seemingly un-matching ingredients but taste great. A simple and refreshing appetizer. 

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烤鹹豬肉,烤得香酥脆嫩兼具,沾點醋配著蒜白一起吃。不愧是得獎作品。

Roasted Salty Pork: Roasted for a crispy and tender texture that can be served with some vinegar and the white base of leeks. It is an award winning dish. 

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傅姐風味餐,一整套的茶料理。有當地當季蔬菜、紅烏龍入味的東坡肉、紅烏龍脆脆蝦,還有結合客家與原住民料理的阿粨。

Fu’s Ethnic Meal: A set of tea cuisine consisting of local vegetables in season, Dongpo streaky pork seasoned with red oolong, red oolong shrimp, and the A-Bai combining Hakka and aboriginal cuisine.

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地址:臺東縣鹿野鄉鄉永安村永安路588號

電話:089-551818

營業時間:周一至周日11:00~14:30 17:00~20:00(不固定公休)

周邊景點:鹿野遊客中心、玉龍泉生態步道

特色:剝皮辣椒三味香、特製烤豬肉、金沙南瓜

網址:www.551818.com.tw

交通::臺九線往北348k左轉永安路588號。南下344.5k永樂路至永安路十字路口右轉即達

ADD: No.588, Yong’an Rd., Yongan Village, Luye Township, Taitung County, Taiwan (R.O.C.)

TEL: 089-551818

Business hours: Monday to Sunday 11:00~14:30 17:00~20:00Closed days unscheduled

Surrounding AttractionsLuye Tourist Center, Yulongquan Ecological Trail

Features: Peeled Chilies, Roasted Pork, Pumpkin and Salty Egg Yolk

Website: www.551818.com.tw

Transportation: 9 Provincial Highway headed northbound, turn left at 348k to No. 588, Yongan Road. Head southbound to Yongle Road at 344.5k, and turn right at interaction of Yongan road. 

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