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臺中火車站前電子街小巷裡的後引食堂,是許多臺中人的回憶。看似老氣的門面可別嫌它裝潢過時,這個店頭簡直是像侯孝賢這樣的導演,拍舊時代電影最好的時光機,能帶你回溯領略日據時期的風情。

事實上這家店最早確實也是日本老闆所開的料理店,臺灣光復後,當時的夥計蔡墩才從日本人手上頂過來的。日本老闆當初將店名取為「後引」,讀音atohiki,古語意為「馬兒過頭了,往回拉」,其實也就是中文「聞香下馬」,有著「人潮絡繹不絕」的期許之意。令人不禁懷想舊昔的臺中火車站前,車水馬龍人聲鼎沸,一定很熱鬧。

雖說是日本料理店,但鎮店招牌卻是熱賣近七十年的排骨飯,採用厚度十分誇張的特選帶骨里肌肉排醃過炸後再滷,彷彿每個肌理紋路都被打通任督二脈,鬆軟卻又元氣十足。米飯則是池上米炊煮,附上日式煎蛋捲、滷高麗菜,就能讓客人用「拿龍鮑翅來也不換的極品」形容之,連以便當聞名的老台鐵人都一試成主顧,吃上二十多年也不厭倦。

The Japanese Cuisine in the lane of streets in Taichung is the common memory of many Taichung people. This old-fashion interior design will take you break to the customs from Japanese Ruling Period. 

In fact this restaurant was first operated by Japanese while the employer Cai Tun took over the restaurant from Japanese after the Retrocession of Taiwan. The restaurant was initially named “Atohiki” to imply constant crowds. 

The most popular dish of the restaurant is the Pork Rib Rice. The selected pork rib is marinated, deep-fried and braised, including Chishan rice, Japanese egg roll and braised cabbage. Many customers stay loyal for more than 20 years. 

 

站前小巷一甲子,臺中人的舊回憶

日據時的日本老闆最早是擺關東煮攤起家,第二代老闆蔡永洲說,後引食堂承襲的正是日本人當年留下的庶民風味。但隨著時代進步,這裡除了排骨飯以及傳統日式料理之外,主廚謝志隆也推薦幾道他的精緻拿手菜色,如松板豬鍬燒,是懷舊的日式田野定食,酸甜又爽口,深獲主顧喜愛;鰻魚丼飯選用鹿港直送白鰻魚,現宰去刺後,再以鰻魚骨熬八小時以上的醬汁烹製,香郁肥美;蝦明太子燒乃燒烤大蝦淋上明太子與美乃滋特製醬料,鮮甜完封;另有生食大干貝佐紅酒醋,以表面炙燒包住干貝鮮味,佐義大利十二年紅酒老醋,襯出海潮鮮美原味更加昇華。

「讓老主顧吃得到回憶,是我的社會責任。」親切的老闆娘強調一等一的服務精神,因此來此用餐不另加收服務費,同時她希望客戶把餐廳當自家廚房,所以從不趕客人,會等到最後的客人眷戀不捨地離去才打烊。有機緣來到臺中火車站前一遊的旅人,不妨多走兩步路,拐個小彎,一嘗這小巷傳香一甲子的好滋味。

60 years of memory in Taichung people

The Japanese owner during the Japanese Ruling Period started out with oden and the civil taste of Atohiki was inherited from that period. However Chef Zhi-Long Xie also recommends his special dishes other than the pork rib rice and traditional Japanese cuisine, including the grade Matsusaka Pork, a old-fashion Japanese set with sweet and refreshing taste. The eel lunch box uses eel that has been braised for 8 hours. The prawn and cod roe and raw scallop are all creative Japanese cuisine.

The owner’s wife insists on providing first-grade service and therefore does not collect additional service charge. She wishes customers to feel like home and she never rushes the customers. 

後引食堂饅魚丼飯,是由罕見的肥美白鰻魚搭配臺東池上壽司米製成。

The eel donburi is a professional lunch box, consisting of rare fatty eel with Taidong Chishan rice.

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松阪豚肉土狩鍋:慢慢融進鍋裡的味噌滋味鮮美濃厚,加上有「黃金六兩」之稱的高級松阪豚肉質口感最佳。

Streaky pork pot: The miso slowly melts to the wok and the high-grade Matsusaka Pork is quite delicious.

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蝦明太子燒,燒烤大蝦淋上明太子與美乃滋特製醬料,完封蝦的甘甜。

Prawn and Cod roe: Roasted Prawn drizzled with cod roe and mayonnaise mixture to seal in the sweetness of the prawn.

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活海鮮生造總匯,採用當日新鮮食材低溫熟成食材生造,如牡丹虲日本馬糞海膽、鳥貝、生干貝,再搭配生魚片等多樣海鮮。

Assorted Seafood Sashimi. 

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生食大干貝佐紅酒醋,表面炙燒包住干貝鮮味,佐義大利十二年紅酒老醋,襯出海潮鮮美原味更加昇華。

Raw Scallop with Red Wine Vinegar: The surface is roasted to seal in the freshness of scallop, served with Italian 12-year red wine vinegar to highlight the original taste of seafood. 

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地址:臺中市台灣大道一段81巷8號

電話:04-22225511

營業時間:周二至周日09:30~14:00 17:00~21:00(周一公休)

周邊景點:第一廣場、臺中中山公園、臺中州廳、宮原眼科

特色:鰻蒲燒、蝦天婦羅、排骨飯

交通:國道1號下中清交流道直行中清路接五權路左轉臺灣大道;臺中火車站走中山路左轉臺灣大道約5分鐘。

ADD: No. 8, LN. 1, Taiwan Boulevard Section 1, Taichung City, Taiwan 
TEL: +886-4-22225511
Business Hours: Tuesday to Sunday 09:30~14:00 17:00~21:00(Closed on Mondays)
Peripheral Sites: First Plaza, Taichung Zhongshan Park, Taichung Prefecture, Miyahara 
Features: Braised eel, shrimp tempura, pork rib rice 
Transportation: Take National Highway No. 1, get off Zhongqing Interchange, go straight on Zhongqing Road and connecting Wuquian Road, turn left to Taiwan Boulevard. Or take Zhongshan Road from Taizhong Train station, turn right at Taiwan Boulevard for about 5 minutes. 

 

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