臺灣餐飲老店 Long-established Restaurants in Taiwan

黑輪、甜不辣、魚丸這些童年吃到現在的小吃，大概就是現在最流行的comfort food—咬一口的瞬間，胃和心都得到慰藉。

雖然是平民小吃，好不好吃有天壤之別。臺南豐發魚漿的黑輪和甜不辣，好吃到要申請專利呢！創始人蔡水藤從1936年開始，每天去漁港採買新鮮旗魚，製作成魚漿販賣，漸漸做出口碑，成為老饕讚譽有加的美料食材。蔡爺爺對於純手工、不添加防腐劑的堅持傳了八十年，如今來到第三代。

謝宛諮和她的先生是在十二年前才成立「豐發」這品牌，當時覺得自己做的魚漿這麼純，但因為主要是批發給餐廳和小吃店，客人到餐廳吃覺得很美味，卻不會知道是他們做的魚漿，於是便想試著將魚漿做成黑輪和天婦羅販售。謝宛諮說：「我們的魚漿都是去市場，用魚叉一隻一隻挑出兩百臺斤左右的黑皮旗魚，檢視肉質是否適合打成魚漿，師傅去皮去骨，將魚肉打成魚漿，並看當天天氣溫度和濕度，依魚肉的特性來調整時間，每次費時約需三十到四十分鐘。」因為挑選的旗魚品質好，純手工打魚漿又費時，豐發的黑輪單價比別人高，一剛開始客人不太能接受，但只要吃過就會從內心發出讚嘆。

Oden, tempura, and fish ball are the comfort foods having been popular since our childhood—your stomach and mind feel comfortable when you have a bite of them.

Although they are ordinary people’s food, they have a great different in their tastes. Oden and tempura of Fengfa Fish Paste are so taster as to apply for a patent! The founder, Shui-Teng Tsai, has bought fresh sailfish from a fishing port to make it into fish paste since 1936. The fish paste becomes a famous food ingredient among gourmets. Grandpa Tasi has insisted on making the paste by hands and using no preservative for 80 years, three generations.  

“Fengfa” was setup by Wan-Zi Hsieh and her husband twelve years ago. “Our fish paste are made from black marlin weighting 120 kg each suitable to be made into fish paste. According to the temperature, moisture, and the texture of fish meat, masters peel off the fish skin, takes out the bones, and mix it into fish paste, which will cost 30 to 40 minutes,” said Wang—Zi Hsieh. Because the high quality of the fish and the long manufacturing time, Fengfa’s oden is more expensive than others’. In spite of it, customers still love it.

好吃到需要申請專利的甜不二

謝宛諮感慨：「黑輪是平民小吃，客人一開始覺得我們比較貴，但是這幾年的食安風波反而發現我們的堅持是對的。」豐發的魚漿只用旗魚、鹽、糖、天然地瓜粉來製作。因為材料簡單，反而每一樣都不能馬虎。豐發食材合作的廠商，可是從從蔡爺爺時代就固定合作到現在。

豐發不只嚴守蔡爺爺的紀律，第三代始終努力創新。甜不二就是他們熱賣到申請專利的小吃。謝宛諮說：「老闆試著在甜不辣中加入米飯，反覆給客人試吃，做市場測試，一直做到現在的第四版，客人說很好吃後，才開始量產。」

豐發從批發開始轉型做門市，從海安路做到正興街，將平民小吃經營的有聲有色，他們的天婦羅都是現做現賣，因此需要一點時間等候，但是客人看得到製作過程，也能吃得安心。曾經有員工不小心將天婦羅炸過頭，謝宛諮看到，還會堅持要為客人換一盤。謝宛諮說：「這樣的天婦羅只有外皮脆，沒有內裡的Q。」雖然只是一盤小吃，但豐發就是希望客人能吃到最好的！

Delicious Tempuer Applying for a Patent

“Oden is an ordinary people’s snack. Customers have complained of our high price but find our insistence right after the problem of food security,” regretted Wang-Zi Hsieh. Fengfa’s fish paste is made of sailfish, sault, sugar, and powder of sweet potatoes only. The cooperation ingredients manufacturers have co-worked with Fengfa since the time of grandpa Tasi.  

Fengfa not only follows grandpa Tsai’s discipline but the third generation takes efforts to be creative as well. Tempuer is the most popular snack applying for a patent. “The owner tries to add rice to tempura, lets the customers try it repeatedly, and makes market tests. It was not until the fourth version and the customers considered it delicious that the tempuer is produced,” said Wang-Zi Hsieh.

 Fengfa transforms from a wholesalers to a retailer, doing business from Haian Road to Zhengxing Street. The tempuras are made and sold immediately so customers need to wait for a while. For customers can see the making process of tempura, they can eat it at ease. Fengfa hopes customers can eat the best food!

招牌旗魚黑輪，新鮮旗魚打製，現做現炸，每次起鍋香傳十里。黑輪剖面白皙，表示絕無化學添加物。

Tempuer: A new product Produced by the request of customers, combination of rice and tempura, delicious and fresh, eaten and making stuff easily, hot-selling product with a patent.

豐盛的火鍋配料，新鮮旗魚漿打成的各式火鍋配料，吃得安心又有實實在在的好味道。

Rich burdens of hot-pot: Diverse burdens made from sailfish paste of hot-pot.