臺灣餐飲老店 Long-established Restaurants in Taiwan

位於臺北後花園的低碳之鄉雙溪，美到讓名作家劉克襄說，願死後骨灰撒在這裡。不僅如此，這裡也發生過浪漫的愛情故事。有綽號鴨肉義的男子，戀慕一位流浪的歌仔戲班女子，懂樂器的鴨肉義願為愛走天涯，與戀人的戲曲琴瑟和鳴，最後他終於抱得美人歸，落戶在遺世獨立的雙溪。這就是1963年創立的蘇義興餐廳的由來。

蘇義興不是鴨肉義本名，而是意指「蘇先生開的店生意興隆」。人說「不是一家人，不進一家門」，岳母擅唱戲、岳父擅樂器，連為老丈人打理餐廳的第二代經營者殷建勳，本身也是民歌時代的駐唱歌手，與他同期的張宇、游鴻明等人，如今都是一線製作人，但殷建勳年少輕狂放棄發片機會，選擇與妻兒隱逸山林，捲起袖子進廚房，加入這個業已超過五十年的餐廳經營行列。

Su Yi-Xing Restaurant, established at Shuangxi in 1963, is named in accordance with the romantic love between Su Yi-Xing, nicknamed as Duck Yi, and a Taiwanese opera’s actress.

Su Yi-Xin is not the real name of Duck Yi; it means that “the store opened by Mr. Su will be prosperous.” The second-generation operator, Yin Jian-Xuan (Mr. Su’s son-in-law), was a resident singer in the folk era. In the same period with Zheng Yu and You Hong-Ming, now the first-line producers, Yin Jian-Xuan gave up being a singer and chose to live in seclusion in the forest with his wife and children. He has involved himself in operating a restaurant which has the history of more than 50 years.

東北角唯一有民歌演唱的餐廳

老闆兼主廚的殷建勳，手藝與歌藝一樣精采清新，在低碳之鄉的雙溪，他特別介紹無油煙料理，例如「粉皮蝦捲」，採用客家粄條包裹蝦仁後清蒸，少油少鹽又清爽；還有「南瓜沙拉」，南瓜蒸過加水煮蛋、梨子或蘋果，是夏季限定的美味；「山藥生魚片」其實就是鮮食的山藥，直接沾蜂蜜或醬油哇沙米，就能讓顧客舉起拇指大讚：「雙溪山藥口感一流」。

「龍蝦炒菜脯」則是殷建勳的丈母娘福至心靈的創意菜，從第一代紅到現在，選用澳底漁港活龍蝦加雙溪好山好水所種的菜脯，是別的地方吃不到的特色料理，被暱稱為山海戀；平雙貢（平溪、雙溪、貢寮）特產黑毛豬，「酥炸三層肉」迥異於一般東坡肉或鹹豬肉的作法，特別能吃出黑毛豬肉香，來此的顧客幾乎每桌必點。

由於雙溪不靠海，在地多季節時蔬山菜，例如地瓜葉、珠蔥、山茼蒿、過貓、山藥等，全都纖維細緻、十分鮮甜，簡單料理就能吃出好滋味。

蘇義興餐廳曾連續兩年獲選團餐特色餐廳，殷建勳還被媒體封為雙溪山藥料理王，來到這裡，一桌十人份的風味餐也不過才三千五百元。

懷念民歌風味的朋友，假日不妨結伴搭火車兜遊雙溪，到此租單車來趟鐵馬之旅，再到蘇義興住宿、用餐，興致來的時候，這裡也有卡拉OK，說不定還能遇到老闆走出廚房，掄起吉他，用他美妙的歌喉與你一起同樂呢。

The only restaurant with folk singers in the northeast coast

Being the owner and the chef, Yin Jian-Xuan is both good at cooking and singing. In Shuangxi, he especially advocates no-fumed cuisines, such as “steamed shrimp roll,” which uses Hakka lath to enfold shrimps before being steamed. The dish has little oil and salt. “Pumpkin salad” is a delicate limited in summer, which mixes steamed pumpkin, boiled eggs, peaches, or apples together. “Chinese yam sashimi,”  people only eat Chinese yam with honey or mustard.

“Fried lobster with dried turnip” is created by Mr. Yin’s mother-in-law. The live lobsters imported from Aodi fishing port and dried turnips growing in Shuangxi creates a particularity of this signature dish-- “the love between mountains and seas.” Pork belly of black hogs, the special product in Pingxi, Shuangxi, and Kongliao, is made into “fried pork belly,” which is different from Dongpo pork and salty pork. It is ordered by most of the customers.

Shuangxi produces seasonal vegetables, including sweet potato leaves, pearl onions, wild lettuces, vegetable ferns, and Chinese yam. They have fine fibers and are fresh and sweet.

Su Yi-Xin restaurant was once listed into the featured group meal restaurants for two years. Yi Jian-Xuan is called by media as the king of Shuangxi’s Chinese yam cuisine. Here, the 10-people table meals only cost NT 3500.

People who miss folk songs can take a trip to Shuangxi with friends by train. Renting a bicycle to travel around and to stay and dine in Su Yi-Xin Restaurant. Here has karaoke. Maybe you can come across the owner walking out of the kitchen to sing a songs with his guitar to you and your friends.

粉皮蝦卷，用客家粉條包裹大量蝦仁，可以吃到Q與脆的雙重口感。

Steamed Shrimp roll: shrimps are wrapped within Hakka vermicelli. People can experience springy and crispy tastes.

酥炸三層肉為蘇義興招牌菜，採用雙溪黑毛豬肉為食材，特別能吃出豬肉香。

Fried pork belly is the signature dish of Su Yi-Xing. It is made from Shuangxi’s black hogs.

山藥辣豆腐使用主廚特調辣醬同炒，可以同時吃到雙溪山藥的脆及豆腐的嫩，非常下飯。

Spicy Tofu with Chinese Yam: tofu and Chinese yam are fried with the spicy sauce blended by the chef. You can taste crispy Shuangxi’s Chinese yam and tender tofu at the same time.

山藥炒蘆筍：爽口的山藥搭配新鮮蘆筍大火快炒，味道鮮甜美味。

Fried Chinese Yam and Asparagus: fresh Chinese yam fried with fresh asparagus with full flames. It tastes fresh and sweet. 

山藥甜湯：山藥是雙溪之寶，殷建勳曾被媒體稱為山藥料理王。

Sweet Chinese Yam Soup: Chinese yam is the treasure of Shunagxi. Yin Jian-Xuan is called by media as the king of Chinese yam.

地址：新北市雙溪區中華路77號

電話：02-24931027

營業時間：周一至周日11:30~14:00 17:00~20:00（無固定休假）

周邊景點：雙溪老街、南天宮、三忠廟

特色：酥炸三層肉、粉皮蝦捲、芋頭酥

交通：國道1號八堵出口往瑞芳、暖暖方向沿臺2丙線至雙溪；或雙溪火車站直走左轉中華路步行約1分鐘。

Address：No.77, Zhonghua Rd., Shuangxi Dist., New Taipei City 22744, Taiwan (R.O.C.)
Tel：02-24931027
Opening：Monday to Sunday 11:30~14:00 17:00~20:00（no regular holidays）
Attractions：Shuangxi old street, Nantien Temple, Sanzhong Temple.
Features：fried pork belly, steamed shrimp roll, taro cake.
Transportation：National Highway No.1  Badu Exit to Rueifang, Nuannaun Tai 2 Bing line Shuangxi; go straight to Shuangxi train station and turn left to Zhonghua Road and walk for about 1 minute.