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年近除夕,人聲鼎沸的南門市場中,億長御坊攤子前一如往年地大排長龍,婆婆媽媽們正爭相買年菜好回去圍爐。連續五年獲得「天下第一攤」美名的億長御坊,以江浙菜系融合了臺灣口味。經營者是人稱朱姊的朱億長,個性爽直,總是笑臉迎人。

朱億長的母親早逝,因此她跟寧波人的房東太太學會了江浙菜:蔥㸆鯽魚、雪菜百頁,紅燒豆包、湖州粽子等。有次外送到一位上海太太家,因緣際會學會了現在的鎮點之寶「冰糖蓮藕」。這道手工功夫菜,得費時九小時,讓糯米與蓮藕Q又軟爛,兩者口味互融互補。當時臺灣根本吃不到這麼道地的上海甜點,所以三十年前一推出,口碑便不脛而走,億長御坊因為朱億長的好學,也因為幾位生命中的貴人,逐漸建立起品牌與形象。

Yi Chang Yu Fang, which won the name of “the best stand in the world” for five years, combines Jangsu-and-Zhejiang cuisine with Taiwanese taste. The operator is Zhu Yi- Chang, called sister Zhu, always greets people with smiles.

Ms. Zhu learned Jangsu-and-Zhejiang cuisine with the landlord’s wife: braised fish with spring onion, stir-fried pickled spinach and tofu skin, tofu bun with brown sauce, Houzhou rice dumpling, stuffed lotus root dessert and so on. The signature dish, stuffed lotus root dessert, is made by stewing glutinous rice and lotus roots for nine hours. Because Mrs. Zhu is diligent, the stand gradually earns reputation.

名人婚宴加持的醬鴨與青椒灌肉

億長御坊從一開始的三、四種菜,到現在的百來道,一次排開令人難以取捨。除了手工小菜,還包辦家常菜、各式年菜和粽子。因為有許多名人加持,名聲更響亮。像是郭台銘婚宴上就用了億長御坊的冰糖醬鴨與青椒灌肉。前者的鴨肉不柴,醬汁入味,Q軟可口,青椒灌肉用的是小朋友也敢吃的羊角椒,手工塞入自家特製絞肉,肉與菜搭配的口味和比例剛剛好。

美食比賽第一名的入口即化東坡肉、季節限定的涼拌茼蒿、粒粒分明的油飯、小朋友最愛的香酥四彩咕咾肉等都是常年熱銷的菜色。另外獨家創新、結合臺灣特色的排骨酥粽,將上海粽結合臺灣人愛吃的排骨酥,更榮獲最佳伴手禮獎。此外,朱億長還在傳統的佛跳牆中,加入了江浙菜經常使用的金華火腿,增添迷人風味,各種菜系在她的巧思下融合成最佳的風味。

讓朱億長引以為傲的還有甜點心太軟。這道甜點改良了傳統心太軟過甜的缺點,只採用新疆上等紅棗,手工去籽,再獨家研發填入自製的芋泥餡料,熱的好吃,冰涼著吃更美味。

好手藝與重情義讓朱億長擁有好口碑與堅持下去的力量,對於成為今日熟食界的「天下第一攤」則始終心懷感恩。走過幾十個年頭,繼續傳承的不只是味道與心意,也是理想延續,一如初衷,以媽媽的角度,提供最好、最真的料理給家人,億長御坊會是一張屬於大「家」的餐桌。

The dishes served in the celebrity’s wedding banquet--Braised duck with brown sauce and green pepper with meat

Yi-Chang Yu Fang sells more than one hundred of dishes. Besides hand-made side dishes, it also sells home cooking dishes, diverse kinds of Chinese New Year’s dishes, and rice dumplings. Because many celebrities recommend Yi-Chang Yu Fang, its reputation is spread widely. For example, Guo Tai-Ming chose braised duck with brown sauce and green pepper with meat as the dishes at his wedding banquet.

Dongpo meat, crown daisy salad, braised pork rice, and sweet and sour pork are the best-selling dishes. The innovative sparerib rice dumplings, which combines Shanghai’s rice dumpling with Taiwan’s fried sparerib, won the best gifts award. In addition, Mrs. Zhu adds Jinghua ham into Buddha jumps over the wall. Every dish has the best taste due to her creativity.

Mrs. Zhu is most proud of the dessert, “too soft heart.” The dessert improves the traditional one, which is too sweet, and is made of Xinjiang’s most excellent jujubes and self-made taro paste.

Zhu Yi-Chang is always grateful for earning the reputation of “the best stand in the world.” She insists on offering the best and the most authentic dishes to customers on the perspective of being a mother. Yi-Chang Yu Fang is a great family dining table for all people.

東坡罈子肉:以蠔油、醬油、蔥、米酒、冰糖熬成老滷汁,放入炸過的三層肉燉煮數小時,肥而不膩,曾獲得傳統市場美食競賽第一名殊榮。

Braised Duck with Brown Sauce: the dish is made by stewing Yilan’s ducks with old sauce for hours. It taste tender and soft, not too salty, juicy and tasty. The signature dish designated by Guo Tai-Ming.

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青椒灌肉:在不辣的羊角椒中逐一用手工塞入特製絞肉,小朋友也敢吃,清爽紮實。

Green pepper with meat: filling hand-made minced meat into each croissants pepper; fresh, substantial, and not spicy. Children can eat, too. 

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冰糖醬鴨:採用宜蘭鴨,並以老滷汁熬煮數個鐘頭。不柴不乾,口感微軟嫩,鴨肉非常入味而不死鹹,汁多味美,郭台銘指定為喜宴菜色的招牌菜!

Dongpo pork: the sauce is made by stewing oyster sauce, soy sauce, onion, rice wine, and crystal sugar, then putting the fired pork belly into the sauce, and stewing it for hours. It is fat but not greasy and once won the championship in the gourmet in traditional market contest.

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冰糖糯米藕:經慢火熬煮後,填入甜糯米,口感美味相當清爽且不會太甜。

Stuffed lotus root dissert: the dish is stewed with low heat before filling in sweet glutinous rice. It tastes fresh and delicious, not too sweet.

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芋泥/麻糬 心太軟:取出紅棗果核,中間夾以糯米,再與冰糖蒸軟,口感綿密軟糯,這是心太軟名字的由來,有麻糬夾心和芋泥夾心兩種口味。

Tora paste/mochi  too soft hears: taking out the kernel of a jujube and filling it with glutinous rice and then steaming with crystal sugar. It tastes soft and delicious. There are two flavors: mochi and taro paste.

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地址:臺北市羅斯福路一段8號186號

電話:02-23930383

營業時間:周二至周日09:00~18:00(周一公休)

周邊景點:國家表演藝術中心國家兩廳院、中正紀念堂、國立歷史博物館、臺北市植物園

特色:佛跳牆、冰糖蓮藕、心太軟

網站:www.ycyf.com.tw

交通:國道1號圓山出口接建國高架仁愛出口右轉仁愛路左轉林森南路左轉羅斯福路;或捷運中正紀念堂站步行約1分鐘。

AddressNo.8, Sec. 1, Roosevelt Rd., Zhongzheng Dist., Taipei City 10074, Taiwan (R.O.C.)

Tel02-23930383

OpeningTuesday to Sunday 09:00~18:00Official holiday: Monday

Surrounding attractions:National Performing & Concert Hall, National Performing Arts Center, Chang Kai Shek Memorial Hall, National History Museum, Taipei Botanical Garden

FeaturesBuddha jumps over the wall, stuffed lotus root dessert, too soft hearts

Websitewww.ycyf.com.tw

TransportationNational Highway No.1à Yuanshan Exità Jianguo freewayà Renai exità turn righto Renai Roadà turn left to Linsennan Roadà turn left to Roosevelt Road; About 1-minute walk from MRT Chang Kai-Shek Memorial Hall Station

 

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