臺灣餐飲老店 Long-established Restaurants in Taiwan

你聽過獨臂刀王，也聽過五億探長，但你若想坐他們曾坐過的位子，吃他們曾吃過的名菜，恐怕跑遍全臺也僅有這家「醉紅樓潮州菜館」。1975年醉紅樓在當年最繁華的大稻埕起家，是臺灣第一家潮州菜館，相傳電影裡的跛豪、雷洛、馬氏兄弟本人，落跑來臺後，都在此出手闊綽，連服務生跑腿買包走私洋菸，四、五十年前就可拿上千元小費。以獨臂刀王走紅的武打明星王羽，更把這裡當自家廚房，頻繁帶朋友上門光顧。

第一代老闆因結識潮州商人，又喜食美饌，便一起合作從潮州聘請正統師傅來臺掌杓。熟習此道的饕客多公認，潮州菜是中國料理最精采的菜式之一，善烹海鮮、重湯輕油、手工細緻，亦即食材高級生猛，滋味清淡卻盡顯鮮味，難怪數十年來醉紅樓能吸引無數豪客青睞。

一般認為潮菜精粹盡在小吃，餐廳好不好，就看「打冷」，也就是所謂滷味、冷盤。而醉紅樓最拿手的，正是四十年老滷慢火的滷水鵝、鵝血等系列，而凍魚、凍花蟹也是一絕，蒸熟急凍，能鎖住原汁原味讓肉質更緊實鮮濃。

Zui Hong Lou was established at Dadaocheng in 1975. It the first Chaozhou restaurant in Taiwan.

The first-generation owner made friends with businessmen from Chaozhou and they loved gourmet so they cooperated to invite the chef from Chaozhou to take charge of the kitchen. Chaozhou cuisine is one of the most awesome Chinese cuisines. Chaozhou cuisine is famous for cooking seafood, emphasizing soup over oil, and its delicate handwork. The taste of the prime seafood is light but has a strong flavor, which makes the restaurant visited by thousands of customers. 

The essence of Chaozhou cuisine is its snack, that is, braised snacks and cold dishes. Zui Hong Lou’s signature dishes are spiced goose, goose blood, frozen fish, and frozen crab. Freezing instantly the steamed fish and crabs can lock their authentic juice and flavor and the texture is more firm and rich.

「搖」出來的極致美味：絲瓜烙

主顧必點招牌還有絲瓜烙，貌似臺式菜脯蛋，卻是潮州師父「內力深厚」的功夫菜。黃瑞陽說：「潮菜是粵菜一支，但香港已不做這道了，因為太考驗掌上功夫了。烙一片少說要花十五分鐘，為將絲瓜的鮮甜全鎖在裡面，必須用很沉的中華鐵鍋搖上一百多次，老師傅的手藝光靠搖鍋，就能將這道菜烙得跟盤子大小剛剛好，無須修飾。」除此之外，還有另一門功夫菜叫石榴雞，日本人相當喜愛，功夫之處在於薄嫩易破、太厚又不好吃的蛋白皮，相當考驗廚師的手藝。其他還有豉汁鰻魚、筍殼魚，也都是老饕才懂得點的功夫菜式，因為主廚堅持最好的食材，這裡常有坊間吃不到的高級魚鮮。

醉紅樓的家具仍保留三、四十年前的手工木藝，完好維持舊昔歲月痕跡。因此倘若你前來醉紅樓光顧，當真坐到當年風雲人物曾坐過的座椅，也不是不可能的事！「過去醉紅樓宛如潮州廚藝訓練所，但老師傅一代一代退休凋零，現全臺包含醉紅樓，已不超過十個真正的潮州師傅了，手藝若失傳，功夫菜將會越來越稀有。」所以希望年輕族群能多多前來嘗鮮，讓潮州美味繼續傳揚下去。

The excellent taste created by “shaking”: Chaozhou loofah Pancake

The must-order dish is Chaozhou loofah pancake, which is similar to Taiwanese fried egg with dried turnip. Huang Ruei Yang said, “No one makes this Chaozhou cuisine in Hong Kong, for it takes too much time and needs excellent cooking skills. Cooking a piece should take 15 minutes. In order to lock the fresh and sweet taste in a loofah, the chef has to shake the heavy pan for hundreds of time.” Besides, another signature dish is Granada chicken, favored by Japanese customers. The dish tests the chef’s skill. Steamed eel/bleek with soy beans are the real Kung Fu dish, for the chef insists on using the best food materials.   

“Zui Hong Lou was like a training place of Chaozhou cuisine in the past. But because the old chefs gradually retired and deceased, there are less than 10 Chaozhou chef in Taiwan now. If the arts of cooking were lost, Kung Fu meal would become rare and rare.” Therefore, we hope young people can visit the restaurant more often to let Chaozhou delicate be passed on.

招牌滷水拚盤，鵝肉肥美、鵝腸爽脆、鵝血鮮嫩，沾蒜醋汁，鮮度更提升甘甜。

Spiced Goose platter: goose is fat, goose intestines are fresh and crispy, goose blood is fresh and soft. Eating them with garlic-vinegar sauce tastes more delicious.

必點招牌潮州絲瓜烙，以蝦仁、花生、蘿蔔乾、絲瓜，芡汁烙成，貌似菜脯蛋，卻是「內力深厚」的功夫菜。

Chaozhou loofah pancake: it is made by the mixture of shrimps, nuts, dried turnips, loofahs and frying the ingredients together. It is a dish needs cooking skill.

發財石榴雞，以筍、雞、蝦、菇等內餡酥炸勾芡，狀似湯包，爽口鮮美，日本客人相當喜愛。

Granada chicken: frying bamboo shoot, chicken, shrimp, and dried mushrooms and thickening them with mixture of cornstarch and water; similar to steamed dumplings, fresh and tasty; Japanese visitors’ favorite dish.

太極素菜：綠白相間賞心悅目，清湯薄芡其味淡雅，卻美妙得令人驚艷。

Tai Chi Vegetarian Soup：green and white make the dish pleasing; broth thickened with mixture of cornstarch and water is light and elegant; its beauty surprises people.

豉汁鰻魚、筍殼魚，都是老饕才懂得點的功夫菜式。圖為泰國進口品質最佳的魚鮮所做的油浸筍殼魚。

Steamed eel/bleeker with soy beans: the dish is a kung Fu dish ordered by gourmet. The picture is the steamed fish made from bleeker imported from Thailand.

白果甜芋泥：是用油將芋頭炒成泥的潮州甜點，綿細芋泥勾上薄糖水，吃了有濃濃的幸福感。

Sweet taro paste with ginkgo: the Chaozhou dessert made from taro paste and syrup. It makes you people when you taste it.

地址：臺北市八德路2段326號2樓

電話：02-27732326

營業時間：周一至周日10:30~14:00 17:00~21:00（全年無休）

周邊景點：臺北小巨蛋

特色：招牌滷水鵝、潮州絲瓜烙、手工反沙芋、鼓汁蒸白鰻

交通：國道1號圓山出口接建國高架下忠孝東路出口迴轉八德路；或捷運南京復興站步行約8分鐘。

Address：2F., No.326, Sec. 2, Bade Rd., Zhongshan Dist., Taipei City 10492, Taiwan (R.O.C.)

Tel：02-27732326

Opening：Monday to Sunday 10:30~14:00 17:00~21:00(no official holidays）

Surrounding Attractions：Taipei Arena

Features：Signature spiced goose, Chaozhou loofah pancake, hand-made fried taro paste, steamed eel with fermented soya beans

Transportation：National Highway No. 1 à Yuanshan Exità Jiangguo freewayà Zhongshiao East Road exità turn left to Bade Road; About 8-minute walk from MRT Nanjing-Fuxing Station