臺灣餐飲老店 Long-established Restaurants in Taiwan

追溯銀翼餐廳的歷史，和中華民國的空軍關係匪淺。民國21年中央航空學校於大陸杭州成立，其中的餐飲部即為最早的前身。由於地緣之便，以淮揚菜為主。抗日期間隨中央政府遷至重慶，因而又加入了川菜的色彩，現今所謂的「川揚菜」特色，便是立基於此。

民國38年隨空軍到台灣，隸屬於空軍新生社（空軍軍官俱樂部前身），專門接待空軍將校級軍官並製作特殊國家節慶或慶功宴時，總統及高級將領的餐點佳餚，偶爾軍官們也會邀請民間友人來用餐。當時的空軍總司令王叔銘將軍注意到這種狀況，於是推動將餐廳民營化。民國42年，餐廳正式轉為民營，並以空軍徽章「銀色飛翼」的象徵「銀翼」為餐廳命名，期許不忘空軍的根本。由當時原班團隊繼續經營，廚師們也是在軍中時就一起合作的伙伴，第一任總經理為張瑞雲先生，他過世後則由林桂英女士擔任董事長，藍隆盛先生擔任總經理。

Yin Yih (Silver Wings) Restaurant has a very close relationship with the ROC Air Force. In 1932, the Central Air Force Academy was established in Hangzhou, China. The Chinese cuisine canteen of the force is the precursor of Yin Yih. As it was located in Jiangsu, it mainly served the dishes in Jiangsu and surrounding areas (Huai and Yang). During WWII, the Central Government moved to Zhongqing. Later, Sichuan cuisines were added to the restaurant’s menu. Combining the dishes of Sichuan and Yanzhou, these became the dishes served at Yin Yih now. 

In 1949, the Air Force Academy moved to Taiwan with the Nationalist Government. The Chinese cuisine department was affiliated with the Xinsheng Club (the precursor of the Air Force Club). It mainly served the high ranking officials at ordinary times. During national holidays, festivals, or celebrations, it prepared feasts for the President and generals. From time to time, Air Force officials loved to invite their civilian friends to eat there. General Wang Shu-ming noticed such phenomena, and he suggested transforming this restaurant into a privately operated one. In 1953, this restaurant had become a private restaurant, called “Yin Yih” (Silver Wings) after the badge of the ROC Air Force – “a pair of silver wings” in order to remind people of its origin. The operation team of the Air Force canteen continued to work for the restaurant, with Zhang Rui-yun as the first manager. The chef working there at that time was his old partner in the Air Force. After Mr. Zhang passed away, Ms. Lin Gui-ying was appointed as the president and Mr. Lan Long-sheng, the general manager.

藍隆盛總經理說，淮揚菜非常注重刀工、火候、高湯，像是揚州天寧寺文思和尚研發的文思豆腐，深受乾隆皇帝讚賞，還列為清宮御宴名饌，便是刀工、火候、高湯等的充分展現。另一道始於隋朝的「獅子頭」，不僅要將五花豬肋條肉細切粗斬，剁成石榴粒狀揉成丸子，再用微火燜炖，更是集刀工、火候、高湯等功夫於一身，故有「淮揚菜是文人菜，廣東菜是商人菜」的說法。而川味的部分，則不同於坊間所熟知的麻辣滋味，反而是取四川菜中較不辣的部分，如餐廳中有一道樟茶鴨，以樟樹葉、茶葉燻製而成，風味很獨特。

銀翼餐廳六十多年來，靠著師傅們一代傳一代的教育及養成，至今仍維持著川揚菜的特殊口味。有忠實的客人家族三代皆在此辦理結婚喜宴，即使是來自大陸的客人，也大讚在此嘗到大陸也吃不到的好味道。藍總經理說，餐廳的菜色及口味一定要堅持品質及既有的口味，才能讓老客人一再的回來，並吸引來自海峽對岸及外國的觀光客。

Mr. Lan, the general manager, says, Hui-Yang cuisines emphasize knife skills, duration, and degree of heating, and broth. For example the Minced Tofu Soup invented by Monk Wensi of Tianning Temple in Yangzhou, it is exemplary of knife skills. It won the praise of Emperor Qianlong of the Qing Dynasty, after tasting this dish. He even recommended listing it as an imperial dish immediately. Another dish, Braised Pork Ball in Brown Sauce, is a good example of knife skills, duration, and degree of heating, and broth. To prepare this dish, the cook has to slice the pork into shreds and then chop it into minced pork with the sizes of shredded guava. Then they are rolled into meat balls, which are stewed at low temperature. Therefore, there is a saying, “In Huai-Yang, people serve scholars’ dishes; in Guangdong, merchants’ dishes.” As to the Sichuan dishes, different from the spicy dishes served in most restaurants, it serves the dishes that are not spicy at all. For example, Smoked Tea Duck is smoked with camphor tree leaves and tealeaves. It is very special and delicious.

During the past six decades, the chefs have cultivated young cooks from generation to generation. Now, it still retains the authentic taste of Sichuan and Yangzhou cuisines. Some loyal customers even throw wedding feasts for three generations in their families. Now, even the visitors from Mainland China love to dine here because they praise that their cuisines are even tastier than those served in China, and they can hardly find any restaurant serving such gourmet dishes back home. Manager Lan says that a restaurant must insist on a particular quality and tastes of their dishes to attract return customers and even international tourists and visitors from Mainland China. 

現任的主廚，是六十三歲的吳國村師傅，在以師徒制傳承川揚口味的餐廳裡，算是沿襲了前輩的第二代主廚。人看起來很是樸實憨厚，不太善於言辭，很難想像他手下管理了二、三十名的廚師，掌刀、掌勺各司其職。吳師傅說他國小畢業就來到銀翼餐廳當學徒學藝，至今已經服務四十多年了。

專長在熱炒類的吳師傅，說到學徒生涯，仍是以「很辛苦」一語帶過，雖說師傅很兇，初期廚房大小事都要做。他說學藝總要個兩、三年才能拿鍋子，入門要六年八個月才能做宴席。由於當年總是年紀小小就當學徒，沒有幾年的成長和訓練，也沒有手勁可以拿得動鍋子，更不用提要同時駕馭火候了。

然而如今看著銀翼餐廳裡的菜單，要熟悉數百種菜色、點心、湯品，以滿足一個又一個大圓桌的客人，也唯有累積了這數十年的經驗和功夫，才能精確掌握這超過半世紀老招牌的味道吧！

近年來，由於經營團隊成員的改變，林董事長和藍總經理對於這家擁有數十年歷史的餐廳經營也有不同的理想。除了希望餐廳能永續經營，將博大精深的「中華飲食文化精神」傳承下去，另一方面也積極投入社會公益行動。民國102年，林桂英董事長成立了「雲英青年發展基金會」，希望透過銀翼餐廳的資源幫助徬徨的弱勢學生及失學青少年。每年提供二十位名額，輔導他們就學，以及培養廚藝、經營等餐飲文化專業知識，日後並會協助就業或甚至創業。
或許，當年空軍子弟兵大家長王叔銘將軍並未預想到這個發展，但銀翼餐廳能展翅六十多年，也幫助另一些孩子張開翅膀翱翔，也應是不負使命之餘，開始重要的新任務。

Perhaps, General Wang Shu-ming of ROCAF did not foresee such development when he found this restaurant. But Yin Yih Restaurant has spread its silver wings for more than six decades and helped many young people to spread theirs. Continuing the mission of satisfying people’s appetite, it starts a new mission of serving the community.

鎮江肴肉：取豬後腿肉醃製，之後放入方形木框中加壓，以去除過多的油脂。吃的時候沾鎮江醋提味，有愈嚼愈香的口感。

Fragrant Pork in Zhenjiang Style: Salt the pork from pigs’ rear legs. Then put them into square wooden frames and press them to remove excess fat. Remember to serve it with Zhengjiang vinegar, it will taste better.

蔥開煨麵：煨麵特別能體現淮揚菜強調湯頭的特色，以豬骨和雞骨熬製湯頭，放入開陽（蝦仁乾）、三星蔥、麵條煨煮，讓每一個食材的味道都融入麵中。

Chinese Scallion Noodles: This dish is an exemplar of using broth in Huai-Yang cooking. First, prepare the broth with pork bones and chicken bones. Simmer the noodles with dried shrimps and Sanxing green onions. Gradually, the noodles will absorb the tastes of all the ingredients. 

什錦小包：包含二個燒賣、二個鮮肉蒸餃、兩個菜小包、三個豆沙包。特別的是以松針墊底，吸收蒸製時的水氣，又能散發淡淡清香。

Mixed Buns: It contains two shumai, two steamed dumplings, two vegetable buns, and three bean paste buns. Specifically, the food is steamed on pine needles that absorb the moisture and give out special aroma during steaming.    

文思豆腐：有三百多年歷史，由揚州天寧寺文思和尚研發，乾隆皇帝嘗過讚不絕口。要將一塊豆腐切成數千條細絲，是最能展現廚師刀工的一道帝王美食。

Minced Tofu Soup: With more than three hundred years’ of history, it was invented by Monk Wensi of Tianning Temple in Yangzhou. Emperor Qianlong praised it highly after tasting it for the first time. To prepare this dish, the cook must cut a piece of tofu into many threads to demonstrate his knife skill. Indeed, it is an imperial dish. 

獅子頭：據說此菜始於隋朝，以肥六瘦四的五花豬肋條肉，細切粗斬，剁成石榴粒狀捏成丸子，微火燜炖後，丸子大而表面粗糙，形如獅子之頭。

Braised Pork Ball in Brown Sauce: It is said this dish was originated in the Sui Dynasty. To prepare this dish, the cook should cut the sliced side pork into threads. Then chop them into the sizes of shredded guava, and roll them into meatballs. As the surfaces of the meatballs are coarse, like lion’s head, it is called “Lion Head” in Chinese.

地址：台北市金山南路二段18號2樓

電話：02-23417799

營業時間：10:00-14:00；17:00-21:00；全年無休

招牌菜：鎮江肴肉、文思豆腐、獅子頭、蔥開煟麵、什錦小包

交通方式：搭乘公車214、237、248、606等路線，信義金山路口下車。0東、20、22、38、204、1503、信義幹線等在捷運東門站下。捷運東門站3號出口。

Address: 2F, 18, Section 2, Jinshan South Road, Taipei
Phone: 02-23417799
Business hours: 10:00-14:00；17:00-21:00；Open thru the year  
Chef’s recommendation: Fragrant Pork in Zhenjiang Style, Minced Tofu Soup, Braised Pork Ball in Brown Sauce, Chinese Scallion Noodles, Mixed Pork Buns
Transportation: Take the bus routes 214, 237, 248, and 606 and get off at Xinyi and Jinshan South Road Intersection