以傳統台南料理聞名的「古都食堂」，前身是一個在吉林路騎樓下的小吃攤，於民國79年設立，當時是由第一代楊月照女士負責，主要賣的是快炒海鮮、擔仔麵、以及一些小菜。由於夫家姓朱，大家都稱楊月照女士為朱媽媽。由於小吃攤的生意不錯，三年後便將店址遷移到旁邊的161巷，有了自己的店面，約20多坪，當時取名為「古都海鮮」。後來在民國91年搬遷到目前的店址，並將「古都海鮮」改名為「古都食堂」，現在由第二代的姊弟接手，民國63年次的朱奕哲負責整個餐廳經營，曾在來來飯店擔任甜點二廚的姐姐朱奕如則負責外場管理。
說到廚藝的學習，朱媽媽回憶說：「我的廚藝都是來自婆婆的指導。以前婆婆是在日本獲得助產士的資格，後來在台灣衛生所工作，每次她下班回來就教我做菜，因為我本身對吃也有興趣，對於做菜不排斥，將基本功學了起來。後來想到要做小生意，就想到要做吃的。」朱媽媽的海鮮熱炒、炒螺肉、炒飯、炒麵、或是絲瓜粥等都十分受到歡迎，朱媽媽做小吃攤的時候，都由先生朱永光在一旁幫忙，但生意太好的時候，先生會因為忙到喘不過氣來而生氣，在一旁的客人為了吃到美味的料理，便會幫忙端菜、洗碗，希望夫妻不要吵架，也成為當時有趣的畫面。
小吃攤搬到161巷的店面之後，朱媽媽仍舊以現點海鮮為主要賣點，但也增加一些菜餚，像是「豆乾炒脆瓜」。這道菜餚當時採用台灣的越瓜來烹調，豆乾和越瓜本來都是分開炒的菜色，但聽從客人的建議，將兩樣食材混在一起炒，沒想到一拍即合，相當受到歡迎，也成為店裡的招牌菜。朱媽媽自己還喜歡台南的老菜「五柳枝」與「糖醋魚」，這些菜餚也都原封不動搬到這家店來賣。由於朱媽媽要求做菜都要”按步來”，不可以偷懶，即使一項「炒花枝」的菜餚，也因為要清洗、川燙等許多細微的步驟，加上火侯要求如炒鱔魚的講究，導致這道菜常常最晚上桌，最後只好忍痛不再販售。但也因為朱媽媽對每道菜的高度要求，死忠顧客源源不絕，許多名人及明星都是常客。
The Ku Du Restaurant, famous for traditional Tainan cuisine, once was just a stall under the overhang on Jilin Road, which was started in 1990. At that time, it was in charge of Yue-Zhao Yang and mainly sold quickly fried seafood, Tan-Tsai Noodles, and other dishes. Since her husband’s family name is Zhu, she was known by everyone as Zhu Mama. Now that the stall had good business, three years later, it was moved to the nearby 161st Alley and had its own shop, covering an area of around 66.2 m2. At that time, it was named as “Ku Du Seafood”. It was moved to the current site in 2002, and its name was also changed from Ku Du Seafood to Ku Du Restaurant. Nowadays it has been taken over by the second generation sister and brother. Yi-Zhe Zhu, who was born in 1974, is responsible for the entire restaurant’s management and the elder sister Yi-Ru Zhu, who once was the dessert assistant cook at Lai Lai Hotel, is responsible for the field management.
Speaking of the learning of cooking skills, Zhu Mama recalled that, “all my cooking skills were taught by my mother-in-law. My mother-in-law obtained a midwife certification in Japan and later came to work in a Taiwan health-center. Every time she came back from work, she would teach me to cook. Since I myself was interested in eating, I didn’t repel cooking. That’s how I learned the basic skills. Later, I thought about doing some small business. Selling food came to mind.” Zhu Mama’s fried seafood, fried conch meat, fried rice, fried noodles or loofah congee are all very popular. When Zhu Mama was cooking at the stall, Mr. Yong-Guang Zhu always came to help. But when the business was too good, Mr. Zhu would get angry for being too busy. The customers nearby, in order to eat delicious food, would help serve the dishes, or wash the bowls, hoping the husband and wife would get angry with each other, which was also an interesting scene at that time.
現在古都食堂由兒子朱奕哲接班，朱奕哲當兵前本來在寶山日本料理工作，也因為媽媽逐漸年長，決定回來繼承家業，餐廳帶有日式的裝潢、與「食堂」的取名，跟朱奕哲與日本料理的淵源脫離不了關係。朱奕哲雖然能做菜，但要掌管餐廳大小事，因此必須從外面找尋適合的廚師來負責廚房工作。朱奕哲提到，「要專業廚師學習媽媽這種家常料理並不容易，因為他們認為媽媽做菜不專業，因此我們換過很多廚師。」現在擔任古都的主廚顏三斌，是澎湖西嶼鄉大池村的人，顏師傅談到自己廚藝的養成：「我是跟著哥哥學辦桌出身的，我們村莊有三分之一的人都是做辦桌的，所以算是台灣料理。後來做過多國料理，也去過日本料理店，在海中海、日新餐廳都做過。」他談到進古都的謀合過程：「老闆娘的菜都是古早味，不好學，每一個步驟都不能馬虎，像是豆乾炒脆瓜就不容易炒好，我練習很多遍，老闆娘都在一旁盯著看，也負責試味道，要做到她滿意為止。不過在這邊也學到不少。」顏師傅用「堅持」這兩個字說明古都能夠經營成功的原因，非常巧的是，跟朱媽媽告訴我的一樣，「『堅持』吧！對菜色要堅持才能走得長遠。」
Now her son Yi-Zhe Zhu took over Ku Du Restaurant. After leaving the military, he originally worked at Baoshan Japanese Cuisine. Because his mother was aging, he decided to come back and inherit the family enterprise. The restaurant has Japanese furniture and its name also has a close relationships with Japanese Cuisine. Although Yi-Zhe Zhu knows how to cook, in order to manage the stuff of the restaurant, he still needs to hire a proper cook to be in charge of the kitchen. He mentioned that, “it’s so hard to let a professional cook learn mother’s home cooking, because they think that mother’s cooking is not professional. So we changed many cooks.” The current chef of Ku Du was San-Bin Yan, from Dachi Village, Xiyu Township, Peng-hu. Chef Yan talked about the forming of his cooking, “I learned from my elder brother catering for banquets. One third of our villagers are engaged in this industry. So, my cooking is also Taiwanese cuisine. Later, I did many nations’ cuisines, and also went to Japanese cuisine. I once stayed at Deep Sea Restaurant and Ri Xin Restaurant.” He talked about his combination with Ku Du, “the landlady’s dishes are all traditional. It’s hard to learn, and you can’t be careless in any step. For example, the Dried Bean Curd Sauteed with Dried Cucumber is hard to fry and I tried for many times. And the landlady stood beside me to watch. She also tasted the flavor, until she was satisfied. But, I have also learned a lot here.” Chef Yan used “persistence” to explain the success of Ku Du. Coincidentally, Zhu Mama also told me the same, “Persistence! Only persistence in the quality of dishes can make you go further.”
豆干炒脆瓜：將豆干和稍微醃過鹽的醃瓜(越瓜)一起炒，是餐廳的獨家招牌料理。主廚強調火力約需中大火，要炒得好不容易。
Dried Bean Curd Sauteed with Dried Cucumber: Fry the dried bean curd together with the slightly-sauteed cucumber. This is the exclusive signature dish of the restaurant. The chef emphasizes the cook heat to be between medium and high. It’s really hard to cook it well.
招牌三拼：由朱媽媽親戚提供配方做出來的紅燒肉、台式傳統香腸，以及以豆皮作為外皮炸的蝦捲所搭配出來的三拼。
Assorted Dish of Three Delicacies: The braised pork in brown sauce, Taiwanese traditional sausage, and fried shrimp with the crust of Tofu skin form the Assorted Dish of Three Delicacies.
乾煎馬頭魚：採用現撈的漁獲，用傳統的台式乾煎烹調法，煎的時候鍋子要熱、溫度要夠高。
Pan Fried Tilefish: Choose the freshly fished tilefish and cook it using the traditional frying method of Taiwan. When you cook it, the pan must be hot at a high enough temperature.
白斬雞：挑選較肥、肉較紮實的古早雞，川燙後用小火燜煮約半小時，能將雞肉的甜味保留住。
Plain chicken: Choose the traditional chicken which is fat and solid. And after boiling it in boiled water, stew it for around half an hour, so that the sweetness of the chicken can be kept.
筍雞火鍋：此鍋品為季節料理，是採用夏天觀音山的綠竹筍，然後和土雞熬煮而成，湯頭鮮甜。
Bamboo Shoots and Chicken Hotpot: This dish is only offered in summer. Use the green bamboo shoots from Kuanyin Mountain and boil them together with the free-range chicken. The soup if fresh and sweet.
地址：台北市吉林路205號1樓
電話：0920-533736
營業時間：12:00-14:00； 17:30-22:00
招牌菜：豆干炒脆瓜、紅燒肉
交通方式：可搭乘台北捷運，於行天宮站下車步行約300公尺；捷運中山國小站則步行約500公尺
Address: 1F., No.205, Jilin Rd., Taipei City
Telephone: 0920533736
Business Hours: 12:00-14:00; 17:30-22:00
Specialty: Dried Bean Curd Sautéed with Dried Cucumber, Fried pork and house spices
Transportation: You can take Taipei Metro and get off at Xingtian Temple Station, then walk for another 300 meters; or you can get off at Metro Zhongshan Elementary School Station, and then walk for another 500 meters.
留言列表
北部店家 Northern Taiwan (4)
