close

台南度小月擔仔麵是起源自光緒21年(1895年)的百年老店,到民國103年正好一百二十歲。光緒年間,洪家先祖洪芋頭在福建海澄到台南府城之間的外海從事漁業,每年清明至中秋期間海象不佳,渡船當有傾覆之險,往往漁獲清淡,俗稱小月,乾脆做個小麵攤生意以度過小月。幸得名師真傳,成為風味特殊的擔仔麵。每每於沿街叫賣時,日本人或是富裕人家會叫至家中,洪芋頭便挑著擔子進門,現煮現吃。

到了第二代的洪公,開始在台南水仙宮前定點販售,並懸掛「度小月」招牌於麵攤前,從此度小月和擔仔麵便結下不解之緣,成為台南府城最富盛名的傳統小吃之一;第三代洪振銘於台南市中正路始有正式店面;及至第四代洪秀宏將家族事業改革為企業化經營,甚至進軍海峽對岸。經歷了上百年的歷史歲月,無論經營的形態為何,始終堅持以傳統古法製作,保持不變的擔仔麵風味。

Established in 1895, Dosyue of Tainan is a restaurant with more than 100 years of history. In 2014, it is its 120-year anniversary. During the Qing Dynasty, the ancestors of Yu-tou Hong, the ancestor of the Hong family, was a fishermen fishing in the seas between Fujian and Tainan, Taiwan. During the seasons between Tomb Sweeping Day and the Mid-Autumn Festival, the sea was rough, not ideal for fishing. In addition to sea changes, the reaping was far from desirable. People called that period xiao yue (small months). Hong went on the shore to sell noodles in order to make a living, called du xiao yue (making a living during the small months). Fortunately, taught by a master chef, Hong’s danzi noodles were exceptionally delicious. When he sold the noodles along the streets, the Japanese or rich families would invite Hong to cook the noodles at sight in their homes. 

Gong Hong, the second generation of the family, began to sell the noodles at a stall in front of Shuixian Temple in Tainan. On his stall, he hoisted the banner “Dosyue”. Since then, the name “Dosyue” has become the synonym of danzi noodles and become one of the most famous snack foods in Tainan. When it came to the third generation, Zheng-ming Hong began to operate a shop on Zhongzheng Road, Tainan. In the fourth generation, Xiu-hong Hong transformed the family business into an enterprise, and even opened branches in Mainland China. With more than 100 years of legacy, no matter how they manage the restaurant, they insist on cooking the noodles with the old recipe with the authentic taste of danzi noodles famous for over a century.

然而,接受現代化教育的第四代經營者洪秀宏,在面對這塊百年招牌時,新的思維卻不斷地衝撞了家族的傳統想法。洪秀宏因為自己的新創意無法說服家族成員而深感挫折,而父親洪振銘也因為工作一輩子的店面改裝後卻找不到簡單的電燈開關而備感衝擊。新舊觀念在交會之際,讓父子與家庭成員間經常處於緊張狀態。為此,洪秀宏決定將台南的老店交給姊姊們,他則於民國88年將度小月帶到台北闖江湖。

他沒想到,就在台灣這個島嶼上,南北的飲食口味和文化竟有莫大差異,讓度小月在台北立足成了更大的挑戰。經過一段時間的適應與調整,他找到融入台北餐飲市場的方式,一方面增加消費者能接受的口味,另一方面也將台南特色小吃(例如蝦捲、炒鱔魚)加入菜單,並開發具有台南特色的餐點(如烤虱目魚肚)。
隨著老行業的消失,擔仔麵所用的麵碗也面臨窯場停產的困境。民國101年,藝術家彭喜埶策劃了「趣遊碗-來碗府城」的計畫,由二位小女生林亭均、方虹云騎著改裝小綿羊,載著大碗公,邊吃邊邀請府城小吃的老闆,在大碗裡集體創作出台南中正圓環,這個創作後來也化身成千百個小麵碗,成為度小月以及諸多台南小吃的特色餐具。

Yet when it comes to Xiu-hong Hong, the fourth generation that is cultivated with modern education, he has new thinking for the family business. Xiu-hong was frustrated when he discovered that his innovative ideas could not persuade his family. He felt shock when his father could not find the simple switch for the electric lights after the shop which he had worked for his entire life was refurbished. When old concepts met new thinking, there were always clashes. The relationships between father and son, Xiu-hong and the family became tense. Therefore, Xiu-hong decided to turn the management of the old restaurant in Tainan to his sister. And he came to Taipei in 1999, carrying the name Dosyue with him.

Unexpected, he found out that the tastes of food in southern and northern Taiwan were so different. Dosyue had encountered challenges for its venture in Taipei. After a period of readjustment and adaptation, he found out the ways to merge into the market. On the one hand, he added dishes acceptable to the consumers. On the other hand, he added some Tainan delicacies, such as shrimp roll, fried eel slices, and more to the menu, and developed more dishes with the taste of Tainan, such as barbecued milk fish belly. 

被稱為大煌師傅的現任主廚馮忠煌,一如度小月傳承數代的歷史,家中也是廚師世家,家族中均為廚師,到目前已經傳到第五代了。由於爸爸和爺爺都是外燴老師傅,他從小耳濡目染,跟著長輩身邊學習、幫忙,不但比一般人更早開始接觸料理大小事,也對廚師一行有更深入的了解,同時也從長輩身上學習到很多在餐廳工作未必學得到的經驗。

自身已有二十多年的廚師經驗的大煌師傅,先後曾擔任過外燴、流水席以及三家餐廳的主廚,做慣了大菜,標榜傳統小吃的度小月卻很不一樣。早年大家上館子消費都要吃得很「澎派」,現在則希望吃得有特色,這便成了度小月主廚的重大考驗,要能在既有的小吃基礎上,開發台南的小吃及特產,並發揮自己的創意,在傳統及創新之間取得微妙平衡,並讓顧客能品嘗到老味道,卻能發現新感受。

歲月悠悠,洪芋頭挑著的度小月擔子依然飄香,隨著家人們多年的努力,家族成員開始互相理解,並在觀念、作法上互相溝通並進行整合,洪秀宏也從中理解了父親一輩子的專注與堅持,如此的他有了更高層次的理想──希望用美食讓世界看到台灣,並一步步的向這個目標前進。不過,忙碌之餘,他還是會懷念父親用紅蔥頭爆炒肉燥的香味,四鄰聞香而來的盛況依有難忘。老故事依然會隨著度小月的擔仔麵傳誦,新的故事則跟著盛著熱湯麵的「趣遊碗」繼續創造著。

As the old businesses faded, the bowls used for holding danzi noodles faced the difficulties of discontinuing in production. In 2012, Xi Peng, an artist, drafted a project “A Reveal of Tainan Inside the Bowl”. Carried out by two young women – Ting-jun Lin and Hong-yun Fang, they rode on scooters and carried big bowls with them. With those huge bowls, they tasted almost all the Tainan delicacies. After tasting those gourmet snack foods, they asked the vendors to draw the Zhongzheng Roundabout in Tainan in the bowls. Later, they used the drafts in their bowls as blueprints for firing bowls of various sizes to serve danzi noodles. Now, it has become the featured bowls used by Dosyue and other Tainan snack foods stalls.

For years, Yu-tou Hong’s stalls continued to sell snack foods with rich aroma. After years of efforts, the members of the Hong family began to understand each other. With more consensuses in thinking and method, they began to integrate their merits. Xiu-hong begins to understand the elders’ insistence and foci. Then, he comes up with thinking at a higher-level—he hopes to make Taiwan known in the world for gourmet food. Now, he is working towards this goal. However, he still loves the aroma of stir-frying minced pork with shallot. He cannot forget the picture of smelling the aroma of this delicious dish in the neighborhood. The old tales keep retelling with each bowl of danzi noodles served at Dosyue. The new stories are carried with each bowl of “Fun Travel Bowl – A Bowl of Tainan.” Legend is still in the making.

擔仔麵:上桌前先以熱水燙碗,麵和豆芽稍燙一下即可撈起,撒上香菜,佐以豬後腿肉爆炒台灣紅蔥頭製成的肉燥,淋上少許蒜泥、五印醋,就成為風味特殊的擔仔麵。

Danzi Noodles:Before serving, the bowl is warmed with hot water. After cooking the noodles and bean sprouts in water briefly, scoop them up and put them into the bowl. Sprinkle some parsley and put some minced pork sauce prepared with stirred fried pork and shallot on the noodles. Add some meshed garlic and black vinegar. Then a bowl of delicious danzi noodles is ready to serve.

1.jpg

蝦捲:台南府城的著名小吃,以豬腹網膜包裹芹菜、青蔥、豬絞肉及蝦仁,裹粉油炸成外皮酥脆的蝦捲,每一口都可以品嚐到蝦子的鮮甜。

Shrimp roll:It is a renowned snack food in Taiwan. Celery, green onion, minced pork, and peeled shrimps are wrapped in a piece of pork belly membrane. Then dipped into the flour before deep frying. When it turns golden yellow, it is ready to serve. Each bite promises you the fresh taste of the shrimps. 

2.jpg

烤虱目魚肚:原本在台南多是以乾煎的方式烹調,來到台北後,為適應現代人少油的健康需求,改用火烤方式取代,來自台南七股的虱目魚則另有一種滋味。

Barbecued Milk Fish Belly:In Tainan, it is mainly fried. When the restaurant was moved to Taipei, the cooks began to barbecue it to suit the demand of modern people on less fat healthy food. The milk fish from Cigu, Tainan has a very special flavor.

3.jpg

龍蝦卵河粉捲:以河粉皮將龍蝦卵、蘆筍、水果等材料包裹成壽司狀,是度小月新創的菜色,一口咬下爽口的外皮,裡面則能嘗到魚卵等材料的多層次口感。

Rice Vermicelli Roll with Lobster Roe:Lobster eggs, asparagus, and fruits are wrapped in rice noodles skin. It is a new dish in Dosyue. The fresh and crunchy warping with the layers of eggs, vegetables and fruits, brings consumers exceptional dining experience.

4.jpg

炒鱔魚:以特殊的台南醬汁炒鱔魚洋蔥、高麗菜等材料,好吃的祕訣在醬汁及翻炒的火候,是一道著名的台南特色菜餚。

Fried Eel Slices: Eel slices are stir-fried with the special Tainan sauce with onion, cabbage, and more. The secrets lie in the sauce and the time and temperature for stir-frying. It is an authentic Tainan delicacy. 

5.jpg

地址:台北市大安區永康街9-1號
電話:02-28414527    
營業時間:11:30-23:00;農曆除夕公休
招牌菜:擔仔麵、蝦捲、烤虱目魚肚、龍蝦卵河粉捲、炒鱔魚
交通方式:捷運東門站5號出口,出站後步行約3分鐘;市區公車0東、20、22、38、204等路線,在信義永康街口站下車,步行約2分鐘即可到達

Address: 9-1, Yongkang Street, Daan District, Taipei
Phone: 02-28414527  
Business hours: 11:30am – 11:00pmm closed on Chinese New Year Eve   
Cuisine: Danzi Noodles, Shrimp Roll, Barbecued Milk Fish Belly, Rice Vermicelli Roll with Lobster Roe, Fried Eel Slices
Transportation: Exit 5 MRT Dongmen Station; getting out of the MRT station, it is within 3-minute walk. By bus: Routes 0 East, 20, 22, 38, or 204. Get off at Xinyi-Yongkang Street Intersection. It is within 2-minute walk. 

 

 

 

arrow
arrow

    taiwanors60 發表在 痞客邦 留言(0) 人氣()