臺灣餐飲老店 Long-established Restaurants in Taiwan

石庭客家小館是花蓮著名的客家餐廳，其前身是民國74年在花蓮民國路開設的「翠亨村客家小館」，由第一代的林張戊妹女士負責，第二代林運松則在之後繼承家業，石庭是目前花蓮具代表性的客家菜餐廳，道地的客家味道來自於苗栗頭份，用純米製作的客家甜點「粢粑」更是受到在地人的喜好。

林運松回憶這段往事，卻意外與茶事業有關。林運松說：「朋友想去花蓮開茶行，因此詢問我們的投資意願，當時媽媽的一句話「有去一擔材，沒去家裡愁」(意思：是有做有機會，沒做就困坐家中)，讓我們決定冒險一試，民國71年便全家搬到花蓮，並在花蓮開設了這家茶行。由於開設茶行認識許多茶友，於是有了許多喝茶、品茶的聚會，我們客家人最為好客，所以也常邀請這些朋友到家中，媽媽便掌廚燒一桌道地的客家料理給這些朋友。由於媽媽的好手藝，茶友們紛紛鼓勵我們開一家客家菜館，禁不住朋友的慫恿，我們便在民國74年於花蓮民國路上開了「翠亨村客家小館」，佔地四十多坪，串起我們與餐飲界的緣分。」

林先生提到當時在花蓮很少有客家菜餐廳，加上媽媽的好手藝，生意相當好，一張桌子一餐便可以連三翻。但因為廚房工作日益繁重，林媽媽無法負荷，因此開始聘請廚師來協助做菜，當時的廚師都不會做客家菜，所以除了林媽媽要技術指導外，林媽媽也帶廚師們到台北、苗栗等地去吃客家菜，並由林媽媽指出其口味是否純正，藉此訓練廚師們能夠精準拿捏客家菜的味道。

Shi Ting Hakka Restaurant is a famous Hakka restaurant in Hualien. Its predecessor was “Cui Heng Village Hakka Restaurant” opened on Minguo Street, Hualien in 1985. Its first generation manager was Madam Zhang-Wu-Mei Lin, and its second generation manager Yun-Song Lin inherited this family enterprise. Shi Ting is a representative of current Hualien Hakka restaurants. Its native Hakka taste comes from Zaoqiao, Miaoli, and Hakka dessert “Zi Ba (glutinous rice cake)” is especially favored by the local people.

Yun-Song Lin recalled this old story, but accidentally found out that it was related to the current leading tea business group – Ten Ren Tea. He said, “We are Hakka from Zaoqiao, Miaoli and our family members are closely engaged in the tea industry. I remembered that Ten Ren Tea came to Toufen, Miao Li to build the first modern tea making factory in 1978. My younger sister, brother, and even my later wife all worked in Ten Ren Group. Later, Ten Ren Group saw the market potential of Hualien and asked us if we were willing to invest. At that time, mom’s words that “go, you get a bunch of timber; stay, you worry at home” (which means if you do, you have opportunities; if you don’t. you will get stuck at home) made us decide to cooperate with Ten Ren. So in 1982, our family moved to Hualien and opened our first shop there. Since we set up a tea house, we came to know many tea friends and had a lot of gatherings to drink tea and taste tea. We Hakka people are very hospitable, so we often invited a lot of friends to our home. Mom would cook a table of native Hakka food to treat these friends. Since Mom’s cooking was great, those tea friends all encouraged my mother to open a Hakka restaurant. Unable to bear the friends’ encouragement any longer, we opened the ‘Cui Heng Village Hakka Restaurant’ on Minguo Road, Hualien in 1985, covering an area of more than 132 m2, which started our relationship with the catering industry.”

Mr. Lin mentioned that, at that time, Hualien had few Hakka restaurants and Mom had very good cooking skills, so they had such a good business that a table could be used three times during one dinner. But, the work in the kitchen became too arduous day by day, and Mom couldn’t bear the tiredness, so they hired other cooks to help her. The cooks didn’t know how to cook Hakka food, so Mom Lin, besides guiding them in cooking techniques, also took them to Taipei, Miaoli and other places to eat Hakka food, and told him whether their dishes were native or not, and through this way trained the cooks to accurately cook the tastes of Hakka food. 

林先生提到媽媽有幾道特色客家菜讓人回憶無窮，一道是芹菜炒鵝腸，展現出客家人善用內臟做菜的勤儉精神，這道菜有時也可以用韭菜去炒鵝腸，現在石庭店裡的招牌菜「天腸地韮」便是選用韭菜炒鵝腸的食材。另外，他強調，「媽媽說如果辦桌當中的菜色沒有雞肉或是封肉就是不澎湃，所以我們餐廳裡的菜單絕對少不了白斬雞跟封肉。」但他也提到，還是有一些媽媽已經失傳的拿手菜，像是「鯽魚湯」。林運松的太太在旁邊描述這道失傳的「鯽魚湯」：「媽媽將鯽魚殺好之後會用乾煎的方式，煎到”恰恰”的感覺，便加入水和薑片一起煮，煮出來的湯是乳白色，湯頭相當鮮甜，只可惜現在我們怎麼煮都少了一味。所以也沒辦法沒有賣這道菜。」另外，林運松用客家話說了類似「油槌」的發音，說林媽媽擅長做這道甜點，將蒸好的地瓜裹粉去炸，吃起來QQ的，不過現在沒有人會做這一道甜點，也說不出它的國語發音，但若貼近「油槌」這一個詞的音，此恰巧指的是唐宋時期的炸元宵，似乎是十分合理的解釋。

林先生表示，翠亨村之後，他曾回過頭去開茶藝館，也開日本料理店，但最終還是回到原點—客家菜。他認為客家菜對他的意義，才是促成他事業發展的重要動力。林先生後來在民國82年承租到現在餐廳現址這塊地，餐廳取名”石庭”，是取”食亭”之音，指的是吃飯的地方，客語說”按便宜、按好吃”，指的是又便宜又好吃的地方，繼續傳承媽媽的味道、兒時的回憶。

Mr. Lin expresses that, after the Cui Heng Village Hakka Restaurant, he once tried to open the teahouse again, and then open a Japanese cuisine restaurant, but at last, returned to the original point – Hakka food. He thinks that the significance of Hakka food is the important force that motivates him to develop his business. Mr. Lin came to and rented the current restaurant site in 1993. He named his restaurant “Shi Ting (Stone Yard)”, which has the same pronunciation as “Shi Ting (Eating Pavilion)”, referring to a place for eating. In Hakka, they say “An Pian Yi, An Hao Chi”, which means a place that has cheap but delicious food, which is passing on the tastes of his mother’s cooking and the memory of his childhood.

天腸地韮：這道招牌菜是林媽媽傳承將近三十年的招牌菜，主要是採用韭菜、鵝腸等食材下鍋大火快炒。

Tian Chang Di Jiu (Fried Goose Intestines with Chinese Chives): This signature dish is the approx. 30-year-old signature dish passed down from Mama Lin. It mainly uses Chinese chives, goose intestines and other food ingredients, quickly fried under a high heat.

酸菜曼波：利用花蓮在地食材—曼波魚魚肉的部分，加上客家酸菜去料理的一道創新菜，將客家傳統融合花蓮當地食材做出來的菜餚獲得消費者的好評。

Mola Fish with Pickled Cabbage: Use Hualien local food material mola fish meat, and add Hakka pickled cabbage to cook a newly created dish. The dish cooked by combing Hakka traditional food and Hualien local food ingredients is highly praised by the customers.

客家粢粑：石庭的客家粢粑由純米製作，這道手工甜點在客家庄只要遇到娶媳婦等喜慶活動，都是招待客人、不可錯過的點心。

Hakka Zi Ba (glutinous rice cake): The Hakka Zi Ba in Shi Ting is made from pure rice. This dessert is a necessary dessert used to treat guests in festivals such as welcoming in a daughter-in-law in Hakka villages.

白玉三寶：「封」是客家料理一項重要的烹調方式。這道白玉三寶採用大白菜、苦瓜、冬瓜三項原封食材利用蒸的方式處理，是客家料理的一項大菜。

White Jade Three Treasures: "Feng"  is an important method of cooking in Hakka cuisine. This White Jade Three Treasures dish uses cabbages, bitter gourds and white gourds, three original “Feng” food ingredients and cooks them by steaming. This is a main course of Hakka cuisine.

芋齒留香：林媽媽每到中元節都會拿芋頭削成一條條的並炸成芋頭簽。林老闆將此概念應用在這道菜，採用花蓮南華的芋頭包裹榴槤下去炸。

The fifth dish: Delicacy on Taro: During every Hungry Ghost Festival, Mama Lin would slice taros into chips and fry them into taro lots. Boss Lin applies this concept to this dish - using taro from Nanhua, Hualien, wraps durian with it and then fries them together.

地址：花蓮市自由街140號（明義國小前）
電話：03-8326116    
營業時間：11:00-14:00；17:00-21:00；無公休日    
招牌菜：天腸地韮、酸菜曼波
交通方式：自花蓮火車站出發，車程約8-10分鐘即可抵達

Address: No. 140, Ziyou St., Hualien City
Telephone: 03-8326116    
Business Hours: 11:00-14:00; 17:00-21:00; open all year around    
Specialty: Tian Chang Di Jiu (Fried Goose Intestines with Chinese Chives), Mola Fish with Pickled Cabbage
Transportation: Around 8-10 minutes’ drive from Hualien railway station to the restaurant