臺灣餐飲老店 Long-established Restaurants in Taiwan

「華味香」這間民國36年就成立的老店，了解它背後的故事，就會發現它與台灣的歷史密不可分。

創辦人郭豫武原在上海擔任會計一職，失業回到潮州，與妻子商量後決定赴台謀生，妻兒兩年後也追隨來台，起初的謀生方式就是扛著扁擔，偕著妻子與兒子郭炳乾沿著路邊叫賣豆漿與青草茶，在新營和白河間叫賣，相當辛苦。在幾位好朋友集資後，開始有了店面，除了販售原本的豆漿油條，還一邊經營快炒店，也就是俗稱的「大排檔」。民國36年，郭家父子遇到了人生的轉折點，一位來自廣東的重病流浪漢因語言不通無法救治，所幸被同鄉的郭家父子所救，這流浪漢原是在北洋政府擔任廚師，為報答郭家的恩情，不藏私地將鴨肉羹、汕頭麵、潮州滷味三種技術教給他們，這三項在日後也變成「華味香」的主力商品。

隔年，台灣政權交接的混亂時期，郭炳乾因移民身分被誣陷以間諜罪逮捕，他的妻子為了救丈夫，單槍匹馬至軍隊與長官斡旋，面對如此勇敢的女性，長官不但釋放郭炳乾，還贈名「華味香」三字，隱喻女子奮勇救夫的精神，也含有「色香味之精華，中華料理遠播」之意，從此就以「華味香」做為店名。

JTT is an old restaurant founded since 1947, and its background story is closely associated with the history of Taiwan. 

Founder Yu-Wu Guo originally served as an accountant in Shanghai, when he lost his job, he returned to Chaozhou and decided to come to Taiwan to make a living after consulting with his wife. Two years later, his wife and son also followed him to Taiwan. Initially, he earned money by peddling soy bean milk and herb tea by the roadside in Xinying and Baihe with his wife and son Bing-Qian Guo, which proved to be very toilsome. Fortunately, after money was raised by several good friends, he eventually had his own restaurant. Besides selling soy bean milk and deep-fried fluffy dough sticks, he also operated a stir-fry restaurant, or so called Hong Kong style restaurant. 

In 1947, Guo and his son encountered a turning point in life, where a seriously ill homeless parson from Guangdong was unable to be treated due to the language barrier. Fortunately, he was rescued by Guo and his son, who came from the same hometown. It turned out that the homeless individual was a chef working for the Beiyang Government; in order to repay his debt of gratitude to Guo, he selflessly passed on his culinary skills on duck thick soup, Shantou noodle and Chaozhou style soy sauce stewed meat. These three items later became the signature dishes of JTT.

The following year, amid the chaos of political transition in Taiwan, Bing-Qian Guo was arrested for espionage because his immigration status was falsely incriminated. In order to save him, his wife negotiated with the military commander by herself; faced with such a courageous woman, the commander not only released Bing-Qian Guo but also presented him with three words “Hua Wei Hsiang”, symbolizing a woman’s courageous spirit in saving her husband. The words also bear the meaning of “Essence of great aesthetics, aroma and taste – promoting Chinese cuisines”. Consequently, the restaurant was also named Hua Wei Hsiang. 

轉到第三代郭正明，時值台灣經濟起飛，他認為即使是老店也要追隨時代的腳步，一接業即著手進行改革，將在路邊洗菜、滿地菸蒂、酒瓶等傳統小吃店的陋習革除，鋪上大理石地板、使用不銹鋼鍋等，帶領餐廳慢慢走向現代化。但民國70年，在台灣人民著迷於投資股票、房地產的時候，郭正明厭倦了每天從早上八點賣到晚上十二點的疲憊生活，決定歇業一陣子，帶著妻子到台北、花蓮，甚至日本等地進行觀摩，回國後積極思索經營方向。郭正明的學習精神相當令人佩服，當台灣第一家麥當勞一開幕，他就立即北上，只為能學習各種經營方式，回來後再度進行餐廳的大整修。

面對餐飲市場的激烈競爭，第四代郭忠銓繼承父親的生意頭腦，將自己的創意發揮在開發新菜色上，將鴨子的用途發揮得淋漓盡致，但為了保持老店的傳統味道，創新菜色只會在另外一個不同形式的分店做販售。隨著時代變遷，郭忠銓也曾在保留傳統與迎合現代人需求有過兩難，像是店內招牌鴨肉羹從創店至今就是放入帶骨鴨肉且勾芡較淡，很多客人都反應吃不慣，但他們最後還是選擇保留原本的樣子，讓客人能品嚐到延續七十年的好味道。

現在這家店已成為新營地區的代表小吃，能維持七十年之久，郭正明認為，誠實對人是能長久經營的不二法門，他自信地說，「食材隨時可以檢驗，絕對不會出錯」，尤其是使用最大量的鴨子，絕對是經過-60度急速冷凍殺菌、並具有CAS認證；「華味香」的食材都自己管理，各種調味料也都是出自自家之手，「讓阿公、阿嬤放心把孫子的肚子交給他」是郭正明給自己同仁勉勵的一句話。他還提到，以前載豬的司機來店內吃麵，不小心將當時可買一棟房子的巨額遺忘在店內，郭正明拾金不昧立刻物歸原主，不管是做人還是做菜，秉持的就是「誠信」二字。對於未來，他不將目標放在如何壯大店家、拓展店面，而是盼望這間店能成為員工安居樂業的場所，讓他們工作沒有負擔，長久維繫與員工的情感。

When the baton of the restaurant was passed on to the third generation successor Zheng-Ming Guo, it was a period of economic prosperity in Taiwan, and he believed that even an old restaurant needs to catch up with the current trends, therefore he initiated a reformation to eliminate the undesirable customs of traditional roadside eateries where vegetables are washed on the side of the road, cigarette butts and alcohol bottles are strewn across the floor. Furthermore, he changed the flooring of the restaurant to marble and replaced old cooking ware with stainless steel ones; one small step at a time, he strived to modernize the restaurant. 

He also mentioned that at one time, a pig transporter who came to eat noodles in the restaurant left a giant sum of cash - enough to purchase a house - in his restaurant by accident, Zheng-Ming Guo immediately contacted the driver to return the money. Whether as a person or as a chef, Guo always upholds the principle of “integrity”. As far as the future is concerned, he is not focused on how to grow and expand the restaurant, instead he hopes it will become a venue offering peace and stable employment for the employees, so that they may work without a burden and maintain a long-term capital-labor relationship.

鴨肉羹：嚴選頂級蘆鴨，高湯以全鴨熬煮，再放入祖傳配方與筍絲煮滾後，下蕃薯粉勾芡再放進先經川燙、煮熟剁塊的鴨肉，約二十分鐘後，美味鴨肉羹即可上桌。

Duck thick soup: The stringently selected top quality duck are used to stew the soup stock before exclusive secret ingredients and bamboo shoot strips are added and boiled. Sweet potato starch is added to thicken the soup before boiled duck meat is chopped and added to the soup. In roughly 20 minutes, the delicious duck thick soup can be served. 

鴨汁滷味：主要為豆干、米血、鴨舌頭等，滷製方式源於古老的潮州流派，滷汁加入多種藥材，但味道協調互不衝突，襯托食物原本的味道。

Duck sauce stewed food: Main ingredients including dried bean curd, black pudding and duck tongue etc. are stewed according to ancient Chaozhou recipe. The stewed sauce contains various Chinese herbal medicines to present a harmonious flavor that complements the food’s original taste. 

花生豬腳：處理豬腳的前置作業相當繁複，需先將豬腳中間的膜移除，再進行分切。花生雖然是配角，但從挑選到浸泡、清洗，花費的時間也不容小覷。

Marinated pig’s feet with peanuts: The preparation work for cooking pig’s feet is extremely complex, where the membrane of the pig’s feet must be removed first before they are chopped up. Although peanuts act only as a complement, preparation work from soaking to washing also takes up considerable time.

藥膳醉鴨：鴨子先進行川燙後，取下鴨腿肉在冷藏室浸泡中藥與藥酒，需一個禮拜的時間，才能將酒香與藥材完全融入於鴨肉中。

Drunken duck marinated in Chinese herbal medicine: The duck is boiled before the duck legs are marinated in Chinese herbal medicine and medicated wine inside the refrigerator for one week in order to allow the duck to completely absorb the fragrance of the wine and the essence of the Chinese herbal medicine. 

鴨油：華味香之特產，取鴨尾部的油用小火搾取出來，為不飽和脂肪酸，人體較好吸收，為華味香料理的基底，還可製作香皂。

Duck oil: This is a specialty product of JTT, where the oil at the tail of the duck is extracted using gentle heat. The duck oil is a type of unsaturated fat, thus it is easily absorbed by the body. In addition to being the foundation of JTT’s cuisines, it can also be used to manufacture soaps. 

地址：台南市新營區延平路29號
電話：06-6322981
營業時間：10:00-21:00；全年無休    
招牌菜：鴨肉羹、鴨汁滷味、陽光鴨麵
交通方式：至新營火車站，轉計程車約5分鐘

Address: No.29, Yanping Rd, Xinying Dist., Tainan City
Telephone: 06-6322981    
Business hours: 10:00-21:00, open all year round     
Signature dishes: Duck thick soup, soy sauce braised duck, sunlight duck noodles
Transport and directions: Disembark at Xinying Train Station and transfer to a taxi to reach the destination in about 5 minutes.