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老邵餐館在花蓮市擁有一定知名度,以外省麵食著稱,從創店至今,整整五十個年頭。第一代是由劉春蓮女士於民國53年在雲林創立的「老邵籠包」,老邵餐館的老闆邵士金則為第二代。邵先生提到開店的這段往事:「我爸爸是浙江人,媽媽則是本省人,當時一家人住在雲林的眷村。為了討生活,選擇開小吃店,因為爸爸是外省人,所以選擇做麵食類的小生意。雖然媽媽當時對麵食並不在行,但當時眷村裏的叔叔、阿姨都會來幫忙,也教媽媽製作不同的麵食,久而久之就上手了。」目前雲林本店仍有經營,由邵士金的弟弟接手,以湯包為主,邵先生則於民國76年來到花蓮,隔年則開立「老邵餃館」,之後改名為「老邵餐館」,除了主食仍以麵食為主外,更增加許多媽媽的拿手菜餚,像是魚鯗燒肉、炒餅等,當然廚藝都傳承自邵媽媽。

說到媽媽的拿手菜餚--魚鯗燒肉,邵士金特別作介紹,還提到”鯗”這個字的發音為“想”的同音。邵先生現場拿出親自曬了7-10天的鰻魚,並介紹這道菜餚說:「台灣應該只有我們在販賣「魚鯗燒肉」這道菜的作法很麻煩,尤其是魚的處理程序十分費工。這道菜所使用的鰻魚都是從花蓮外海捕獲的野生鰻魚,拿到新鮮的鰻魚之後,要先殺魚,抹鹽後撐平,在屋簷下有風的地方風乾7-10 天,但不能曬到太陽,之後束袋包裝讓它熟成,將熟成的鰻魚洗掉灰塵之後,即可切塊與三層肉後段部位一起燒,即完成這道菜餚。」另外,還提到已經不賣的「老邵餃子」,邵士金說,「老邵餃子的餡是由一半生肉、一半是煸炒過的熟肉拌出來的,相當費工,炒的熟肉還要加上大茴香(八角)、花椒等香料,有些台灣人覺得味道太重,不太能接受,所以就不賣了,但其實這就是道地的瀋陽老邊餃子,這道菜也是由眷村的老鄉傾囊相授而來,我也在思考應該將這道菜再拿出來賣,不然老菜就要失傳了。」從此處,也看到老闆在傳承上的用心。

Lau Shau Restaurant is quite famous in Hualien. It’s well-known for the pastries from other provinces. Since its founding day, it has been run for 50 years. Its first generation manager was Chun-Lian Liu who founded Lau Shau Steamed Stuffed Buns in Yunlin in 1964. The boss of Lau Shau Restaurant, Shi-Jin Shau was the second generation manager. Mr. Shau mentioned the story of opening this restaurant: “My father was from Zhejian, while my mother was Taiwanese. And at that time, our family lived in the military dependants' village in Yunlin. To support our life, we choose to open an eatery. Since papa came from other province, so we chose to do a small business relating to pastries. My mother was not good at cooking pastries at that time. But uncles and aunts in the village all came to help and taught mother how to cook various pastries. Gradually, she became good at cooking pastries. Currently, the original restaurant at Yunlin is still in business, which is taken over by Shi-Jin Shau’s younger brother and mainly sells steamed dumplings filled with minced meat and gravy. Mr. Shau went to Hualien in 1987, and in the next year, he opened Lau Shau Dumpling Restaurant, which was later renamed as Lau Shau Restaurant. The restaurant mainly sells pastries, but also includes many special dishes of his mother, such as Braised Pork with Dried Salted Fish, Fried Shredded Pancake, etc., and the cooking skills are all inherited from Mother Shau.

由於客人的捧場,邵士金也從外面聘請廚師來幫忙,但與專業廚師的謀合仍需一段時間。邵士金提到麵食的製作時說到:「店裡的主食都是麵食,湯包、蒸餃、水餃、蔥油餅等,都是傳承自媽媽的手法,並都是手工製作。我跟麵點師傅說做麵皮要相當用心,當下水去拌麵粉的時候,一定要放入感情,它自然會回應給你,要學會跟麵皮對話。當然師傅也帶他自己的專業來到店裡,所以我們會一起調整的。」老闆點出了經營五十年的秘訣就是要用心,唯有用心,食物會回應、客人會回應,這就是收穫。

 

目前老邵餐館的主廚是由62年次的胡國華擔任,自17歲起即在當地海產店擔任學徒的胡師傅,雖然年輕,卻已有24年的廚藝資歷。胡師傅的背景是台菜海鮮,但他指出,剛來的時候也是從頭學起,因為菜系的不一樣,讓他覺得更具挑戰性。剛開始也是由老闆指導做菜,但他自己說只要基本功好,其實很快就能上手。但胡師傅也一語道破眷村菜的特色,他說眷村菜十分重視醃製,「酸」的味道需要到位,這是與台菜較為不同的地方。

除了店裡的幾項招牌老菜,胡師傅也和老闆研發一些新菜,像是「邵家烤魚」,便是改良自日本的甘露烤魚,以蜜汁的烹調方式改成台式口味。另外,胡師傅也推薦幾道菜餚:如「三杯安康」採用花蓮在地的海鮮食材,「酸高麗梅肉」則展現出眷村菜特有的酸味特色。

Speaking of Mother’s special dish –Yu Xiang Shao Rou (Braised Pork with Dried Salted Fish), Shi-Jin Shau gave a special explanation, and mentioned that the pronunciation “Xiang” is the same as “Xiang (Miss)”. Mr. Shau took out the eel which has been dried in the sun for 7 to 10 days, and introduced the dish: “In Taiwan, only our procedure of making Yu Xiang Shao Rou is so complicated, especially the procedure of processing the fish. The eels used in this dish are all wild eels fished and exported from the Hualien estuary. After getting the fresh eels, first kill them, then spread salt on them and make them flat, and then fry them under the eaves where there is a breeze, for 7 to 10 days, but they can’t be exposed to the sun. Later, package them in drawstring bags to make them mature. After washing the dust from the mature eels, braise them together with the final layer of three-layer pork. Thus this dish is then completed.” What’s more, he also mentioned Lau Shau dumplings which they don’t sell any more. Shi-Jin Shau said, “half the dressings of Lau Shau dumplings are fresh meat, and the other half are pan-fried cooked meat, which is quite complicated. The pan-fried cooked meat also includes star anise, Sichuan pepper, and other spices. Some Taiwanese think its taste is too strong that they can’t accept it. So we don’t sell it any more. But in fact, they are exactly the native dumplings in Laubian, Shenyang, and this dish was also directly learned from the native people in the military dependents’ village. I’m also thinking that we ought to sell it again. If not, the old dish may become extinct.”

Besides the several old signature dishes of the restaurant, Chef Hu and the boss also developed some new dishes, such as “Shau Shi Toasted Fish”, which is improved from Japanese Sweet Dew Toasted Fish and uses a honey cooking method to change it into Taiwanese taste. In addition, Chef Hu also recommended several dishes such as Three-Cup Safety and Health which adopts native seafood materials of Hualien, and Sour Cabbage Plum Flesh which presents the sour feature of the dishes in the military dependents’ villages.

魚鯗燒肉:將新鮮的野生鰻魚抹上鹽巴,經過7-10天的風乾之後束袋包裝後熟成。之後將乾鰻魚切塊與三層肉後段部位一起燒製而成。

Yu Xiang Shao Rou (Braised Pork with Dried Salted Fish): Spread salt onto the fresh wild eels. After 7 to 10 days’ drying in the wind, package them till they are mature. Later cut the dried eels into cubes and braise them together with the shoulder pork.

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臘肉炒餅:外省人喜愛烙餅,沒吃完便將他切成條狀後再與其他食材拌炒。這道臘肉炒餅是屬於過年剩菜再製作的菜色,將剩下的餅皮、臘肉翻炒出來即可。

Fried Sliced Pancakes with Preserved Meat: People from other provinces love eating pancakes. If they don’t finish them, they will cut into slices and fry them together with other food materials. The Fried Sliced Pancakes with Preserved Meat dish is the re-cooked dish of leftovers during the spring festival, by frying the leftover pancake slices and the preserved meat.

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蟹黃海鮮煲:和花蓮當地魚貨、小蝦、透抽、蛤蠣、蚵仔等所製作出的一道菜餚。

Crab Spawn and Seafood Congee: This is a dish made from Hualien’s local fish products, shrimps, Loligo edulis, clams, oysters etc. 

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水煮肉:這道江浙菜所採用的辣油是來自西藏的大紅袍辣油,大紅袍是花椒的一種。

Meat in Hot Chili Oil: This dish is the Sichuan-flavored dish invented together with the cooks. The hot chili oil is made from the Tibetan Da Hung Pao chili oil.  Da Hung Pao is one type of Suchuan pepper.

 

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帕吉魯紅燒:採用花蓮的在地食材—麵包果所研發出來的菜色,是日據時代由日本人自南洋帶來台灣的植物,是現在花蓮極力推廣的無毒有機蔬果。

Braised Breadfruit: This is a dish developed by using Hualien’s native food ingredient – breadfruit. Breadfruit was brought into Taiwan from Southeast Asia during the Japanese colonial period, which now is a highly-recommended non-toxic organic fruit and vegetable of Hualien. 

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地址:花蓮市三民街3-2號
電話:03-8340858    
營業時間:11:00-14:00;17:00-20:30 
招牌菜:魚鯗燒肉、炒餅
交通方式:自花蓮火車站出發,車程約8分鐘即可抵達

Address: No. 3-2, SanMin Street, Hualien City
Telephone: 03-8340858    Price    
Business Hours: 11:00-14:00; 17:00-20:30    
Specialty:    Braised Pork with Dried Salted Fish, Fried Shredded Pancake
Transportation: Around 8 minutes’ drive from Hualien railway station to the restaurant

 

 

 

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    臺灣餐飲老店 Long-established Restaurants in Taiwan

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