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有一種店,你一踏進去就彷彿回到六、七十年前:店裡大眾化食堂的明亮空間,老闆親切明亮的招呼聲,空氣中飄來廚房柴魚高湯濃郁的香味,簡直像是穿越時空,回到爺爺年輕時的臺灣。

創立於1946年,位在西門町的美觀園,正是這樣一家默默見證時代變遷,同時又能在變換快速的歲月中,保有自己風格的店。第一代的爺爺張良鐵創立美觀園,見證了臺灣經濟起飛與繁華。當年,他赤手空拳從彰化員林來到臺北打拼,在「柳屋」日本料理店擔任掌廚之職,之後張良鐵更在戰後去到日本,向已經回國的柳屋老闆學習到完整的日本料理精髓。

張良鐵從日本學成回國後,在西門町開設了美觀園,從小小的店面中,一客三塊半的快餐開始,可說是臺灣和漢料理的代表。當時美觀園的招牌快餐,盤上的豬排就跟牛排一樣,附上刀叉供客人自行切食,在當時非常時髦新奇。第三代的張力仁回憶:「很多老一輩的文人雅士、政商鉅子如彭淮南,在尚未出名前常來這裡吃招牌快餐。現在偶爾還是會低調地來這裡吃一份招牌快餐,為的就是回味青春。」

Established in 1946, Mei Guan Yuan, located in Ximending, is a restaurant which reticently witnesses and preserves its own style with the change of times. The first generation. Grandpa Chang Liang-Tie, established Mei Guan Yuan. Being a chef in a Japanese restaurant, Mr. Chang went to Japan to learn Japanese cuisine with his former employer after the end of WWII.

After returning to Taiwan, Mr. Chang opened Mei Guan Yuan in Ximending. The signature fast meal in Mei Guan Yuan at that time was pork chop. Chang Li-Ren, the third generation, remembered, “the elder men of letters and refined scholars, and business tycoons came to have a signature fast meal before becoming famous. Peng Huai-Nan often came here to have a signature fast meal in the past. Now he has it sometimes to recall his youth.”

自製的美乃滋讓快餐與美味料理加分

許多熟客的青春已逝,但美觀園如今依然高朋滿座。張力仁說,店裡最受歡迎的便是生魚片、壽司及生啤酒。天婦羅、生魚片蓋飯、鰻魚定食等也極受年輕人喜愛。海鮮分量多,綜合生魚片和生魚片蓋飯上桌時,往往令人驚喜萬分。張力仁說,因為生意好,海鮮進貨量大,所以便能以薄利多銷的方式,讓顧客以平實價格吃到分量充實的新鮮食材。而店裡熱賣到曾榮獲公賣局獎項的啤酒,則是以印有「臺北老城鋪」字樣的天王杯供應。

美觀園成立快七十年了,問到最令自己自豪的招牌菜,張力仁說除了招牌快餐之外,就是美乃滋了。招牌快餐有別家吃不到的口感和風味。美乃滋則是新鮮爽口,濃郁不膩的關鍵在於每天供應的都來自自製,酸度與甜度的黃金比例,讓美觀園的美味佳餚顯現出自己獨特的日式料理風格。

吃一口青春,再吃一口懷念。獨特的大眾化食堂的經營風格、堅持傳承傳統日式料理,都讓美觀園傳遞出濃濃的時代風味。在這裡,吃的不僅是澎湃豪爽的海鮮,同時也像是品嘗了臺灣過去七十年歲月濃縮的滋味。

Self-made Mayonnaise betters the flavor of Fast Meals

The most popular meal in the restaurant is sashimi, sushi, and draft beer. Tempura, steamed rice with sashimi, and roasted eel combo platter are loved by young people. The portion of seafood is large. When the assorted sashimi and steamed rice with sashimi are served on the table, customers are always surprised. Owing to the prosperity of the business, the restaurant has to import large quantity of seafood; that is why customers can enjoy a large amount of cheaper and fresh ingredients. The beer once won an award offered by Taiwan Tobacco and Wine Monopoly Bureau is filled in a super king’s glass printed with “Taipei old city’s store.”

Mei Guan Yuan has almost been 70 years old. Besides its signature fast meal, mayonnaise is the other signature product, too. The taste of mayonnaise is fresh and not greasy. It is self-made and has a perfect proportion of acidity and sweetness, which shows Mei Guan Yuan’s unique Japanese Cuisine style.

Mei Guan Yuan’s is a unique mass-oriented restaurant; it insists on following the traditional Japanese cuisines. Here, you can not only have a pompous seafood but have a condensed taste of Taiwan history in the past seventy years. 

上乘生魚片蓋飯,壽司飯上鋪滿了各式新鮮高檔的生魚片、北海道牡丹蝦、鮭魚卵、海膽、干貝等新鮮食材。超高人氣料理。

Steamed Rice with Prime Sashimi: Sushi rice is covered with diverse fresh and prime sashimi, botan shrimp from Hokkaido, salmon roe, sea urchin, scallion. The super-hot cuisine.

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上乘綜合生魚片:每天採買進貨的生魚片,不僅新鮮,切得厚實,CP值極高。

Prime assorted Sashimi: sashimi bought and imported every day, fresh and thick, with a high CP ratio.

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大明蝦沙拉,自己製作的美乃滋真是一絕。稱美乃滋為鎮店之寶不為過,酸甜的黃金比例,新鮮的明蝦沾著吃非常爽口。

Large Prawn Salad: the self-made mayonnaise is a magic weapon of the restaurant. The perfect proportion of sweetness and acidity makes the prawn fresh and tasty.

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和風蒸扇貝,厚實飽滿的扇貝,淋上和風醬汁蒸煮,鮮嫩多汁,口中是滿滿的海味。

Japanese Steamed Scallops: thick and full scallops steamed with Japanese sauce makes them taste fresh and juicy.

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蒲燒鰻定食,鰻魚軟嫩、燒烤火侯拿捏得剛好,擠一點檸檬汁,為甘甜提味。搭配著和風生菜、茶碗蒸及黃金干貝珍味,店裡熱賣餐點。

Roasted Eel meal: the tender eel roasted by the good heat control with drops of lemon juice, vegetables, egg custard, and scallops makes it the best-selling dish in the restaurant. 

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地址:臺北市萬華區峨嵋街36號

電話:02-23317000

營業時間:周一至周日11:00~21:00(每月第二及第四週之星期二公休)

周邊景點:臺北市電影主題公園、中山堂、臺北撫臺街洋樓、西門町

特色:新鮮量多平價之生魚片、日本養身冷盤、海膽、鮭魚

網站:http://www.oldshop.com.tw/

交通:國道1號下重慶北路出口往重慶南路方向右轉武昌街左轉開封街到峨嵋街;或捷運西門站步行約5分鐘。

Address:No.36, Emei St., Wanhua Dist., Taipei City 10844, Taiwan (R.O.C.)
Tel:02-23317000
Opening:Monday to Sunday 11:00~21:00(Official holidays: the second and third Tuesdays of each month)
Surrounding Attractions:Taipei Cinema Park, Zhongshan Hall, Futai Street Mansion, Ximending
Features:fresh, cheap, and of large portion of sashimi, Japanese health cold dish, sea urchin, salmon 
Website:http://www.oldshop.com.tw/
Transportation:National Highway No1 Zhongqing Exit Zhongaing South Road turn right ot Wuchang Street turn left to Kaifeng Street to Ermei Street; about 5 minute walk from MRT Ximen station

 

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    臺灣餐飲老店 Long-established Restaurants in Taiwan

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