眾所周知中國菜分八大菜系,但你可能不知道正統閩菜在臺灣非常珍稀。尤其福州菜,一般人恐怕除傻瓜乾麵和魚丸外,一時半刻都說不出所以然,但這兩道在福州菜名菜裡,可能連邊都勾不著呢。至於吃過的人,那就無人不曉這家臺灣唯一正宗閩菜館「福州新利大雅餐廳」了。
福州新利大雅1949年創立於西門町鬧區,回首當年,閩菜餐廳也曾風華一時,如今一家家在西門町消失,唯有它歷經一甲子歲月洗禮,依舊屹立不搖,不僅未曾搬離,別無分號。多年來它榮獲眾多海內外媒體強力推薦,政商名人從過去到現在川流不息,知名大導演李安、林正盛、蔡明亮、吳念真不約而同都是座上賓。港日新馬及美加華人來臺,更濡慕道地家鄉味,下機便直奔而來非吃不可。
海鮮、紅糟、糖醋,是福州菜三大特色。由於福州臨海,海鮮自然是食材大宗。而紅糟則起源於福州人喜釀紅麴酒,酒糟也因之成為入菜聖品,除增加食物鮮美外,更有消食活血功效。料理之所以偏甜、偏酸,乃因甜能去腥,酸能開胃,所以糖醋自然成為福州菜常用手法。
Fuzhou cuisine in Taiwan is very rare. When it comes to Fuzhou cuisine, people always think of Shagua dried noodles and fish balls. But the authentic Fuzhou cuisine can only be found in “Fuzhou Shihli-Daya Restaurant.”
Fuzhou Shinli-Daya was established in Ximending in 1949. Sixty years have been passed but the restaurant still firmly exists. It has been strongly recommended by domestic and foreign mass media and visited by political and business celebrities such as the famous directors such as Ang Lee, Lin Zheng-Sheng, Tsai Ming- Liang, and Wu Nian-Zhen.
Seafood, wine sauce, sweet-and-sour sauce are three features of Fuzhou cuisine. Because Fuzhou is beside the ocean, seafood is the main food material. The origin of wine sauce came from Fuzhou people’s proclivity for brewing red yeast rice wine so it becomes the excellent ingredient, which is able to enhance freshness of foods and help digestion. Fuzhou cuisine tends to be sweet and sour. That is because sweetness can remove fishy smell and sour flavor can provoke appetite. Therefore sweet-and-sour sauce becomes the common flavor used in Fuzhou cuisine.
老菜新嚐,歡迎年輕人文化探索
老闆蔡政見說,這裡的紅糟鰻須經過四到五天的醃漬才能入鍋酥炸,醬料沾與不沾還能呈現兩種風味;海鮮米粉配料豐富,不放鹽巴味素,單靠蝦油的鹹甜,一大碗只賣一百元,三十年來不曾調價,完全賠錢賣,只為抓住老顧客的胃與心;有歷史意義的戚繼光餅(鹹光餅),是古代行軍糧,加入多汁的鮮蚵煎蛋,改良成「福州漢堡」,對年輕人來說是值得嚐新的美味。
此外,招牌還有腰花海蜇、鳳凰搗粉、紅糟羊肉、魚丸燕丸湯、蚵豆腐湯、綠豆凍榚、糯米捲煎、芝麻糬等,不勝枚舉,全是當年隨國軍來臺的福州老師傅傳承至今,令饕客魂牽夢縈的美味。尤其入口即化的「芋泥」更是不可錯過的道地福州甜點。
蔡政見說:「我們將福州菜當作文化事業經營,具有歷史傳承的重大意義。鄉親的春酒、祭祖、同鄉會年年都在這裡辦,讓老店變成連絡站,久未謀面的老鄉這邊一問都找得到人。老師傅、老員工跟隨至今,都在這裡成家立業辦喜宴。」因此,對福州只有傻瓜乾麵跟魚丸印象的饕家,實在非常值得親炙這場美食探索。
Traditional dishes with a new taste, welcoming young people to explore culture
The owner, Tsai Zheng-Jian, said that eel with wine sauce has to be pickled for four to five days before being fried. Rice noodles with seafood has rich ingredients; there is no salt and gourmet powder added into it. It only relies on the saline flavor and sweetness of shrimp paste. It only costs NT$ 100. Qi Ji-Guan bun (Xianguan bun) is improved into “Fuzhou hamburger” by adding fresh oysters and eggs into it. This is a delicate worth being tasted by young people.
In addition, the signature dishes include pork kidney with jellyfish, mutton with wine sauce, fish ball and Yan Wan soup, oyster and tofu soup, mung bean parfait, fried glutinous rice roll, sesame template rice cake, etc.. Yam paste, the authentic Fuzhou sweetie, is a dish which cannot be missed.
Tsai Zheng-Jian said, “We take Fuzhou cuisine as culture business.” The gourmets who only know Shagua dried noodles and fish balls should come to our restaurant to explore a new delicate.
海鮮米粉:配料豐富,不放鹽巴味素,單靠蝦油的鹹甜,一大碗只賣一百元。
Rice noodles with seafood has rich ingredients in it and adds no salt and gourmet powder; it only relies on sweet and saline taste of shrimp sauce. It only costs NT$ 100.
紅糟海鰻(厚):須經四到五天醃漬才能入鍋酥炸,醬料沾與不沾能呈現兩種風味。
Eel with wine sauce (thick) has to be pickled in wine sauce for four to five days before being fried. It tastes differently when eaten with sauce and without sauce.
戚繼光餅(鹹光餅)鮮蚵夾蛋:改良成「福州漢堡」,對年輕人來說是值得嚐新的美味。
Qi Ji-Guan bun (Xianguan bun) with fresh oysters and eggs in it, which is improved into “Fuzhou hamburger.” The is a delicate worth being tasted by young people.
福州招牌菜腰花海蜇:脆是這道菜的精髓所在,腰花、魷魚、海蜇、油條,全數爽脆可口。
The traditioanl and authentic Fuzhou signature dish, pork kidney with jellyfish. Crispyis the essence of the dish. Pork kidney, squid, jellyfish, and fried bread stick are all fresh and delicious.
福州醉雞
Fuzhou Drunk Chicken
香而濃稠入口即化的「芋泥」,更是不可錯過的道地福州甜點。
“Yam paste,” the fragrant and easily melted in the mouth, is the authentic Fuzhou sweetie.
地址:臺北市峨嵋街52號7樓
電話:02-23313931
營業時間:平日11:00~14:00 17:00~21:00,假日11:00~14:30 16:30~21:30(全年無休)
周邊景點:西門紅樓、臺北市電影主題公園、中山堂、臺北撫臺街洋樓、武昌電影街
特色:海鮮米粉、紅糟鰻魚、腰花海蟹、芋泥
網站:http://www.shinli-daya.07168tw.net/
交通:國道1號下重慶交流道走重慶北路、重慶南路右轉武昌街左轉漢中街至峨嵋街;或捷運西門站6號出口走漢中街至峨嵋街步行約1分鐘。
Address:7F., No.52, Emei St., Wanhua Dist., Taipei City 10844, Taiwan (R.O.C.)
Tel:02-23313931
Opening: ordinary days 11:00~14:00 17:00~21:00,holidays 11:00~14:30 16:30~21:30(No official holidays)
Surrounding Attractions:Ximen Red Building, Taipei Cinema Park, Zhongshan Hall, Taipei Futai Steet Mansion, Wuchang cinema street
Features:rice noodles with seafood, the red eel, pork kidney with crabs, yam paste
Website:http://www.shinli-daya.07168tw.net/
Transportation:National Highway No. 1 Zongqing Interchange Zongqing North Road turn right at Zongqing South Road to Wechang Street turn left to Hanzhong Street Ermei Street; About 1 minute walk from MRT Ximen Station Exit 6 to Hanzhong Street and then to Ermei Street
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