臺灣餐飲老店 Long-established Restaurants in Taiwan

利用在地食材，以季節性精緻套餐聞名的銘師父擔仔麵，自宜蘭羅東到花蓮落地生根已有41個年頭。人稱銘師父的莊忠銘先生是餐廳的創辦人，民國62年即在花蓮市彰化銀行旁擺路邊攤，銘師父回憶起他的餐飲生涯過程，每十年便是一次轉型。

銘師父一腳踏入餐飲界，可說是一通來自父親的電話。銘師父45年次，當時17歲的銘師父還在台北信義路研習攝影，沒想到在花蓮的爸爸突然決定頂下一個小吃攤，想自己做生意。付了八萬元的頂讓費，莊爸爸跟著小吃攤的老闆在短短的四十天內學會了基本廚藝，但因當時缺人手，硬是將身為老大的銘師父從台北叫回家來幫忙。小吃攤位在花蓮的彰化銀行旁，雖說是個路邊攤，所販賣的菜餚卻多達五十多種，銘師父回憶：「當時一天煮掉快220斤的米，白天的攤位主要賣肉羹、豬皮、各式熱炒等，晚上則讓弟弟接著做，鹹酥蝦、炒韭菜這些下酒的菜餚就在晚上搭配生啤酒賣，所以這個路邊攤又被在地人笑稱「彰化大飯店」。銘師父說，當時每天三點就要起床準備食材與備菜，有十多個助手，一天營業額約在新台幣一萬元，生意相當興隆。轉眼間，因為社會的變化快速，都市更新等政策執行，十二年的路邊攤也畫下休止符。

之後，銘師父在國聲戲院旁開了阿銘海產店，卻一次因緣際會下幫忙友人辦喜宴，發現宴席的高利潤，於是以辦桌喜宴等為主要業務的「漢城餐廳」，開啟了銘師父另一項餐飲事業。「當時爸爸只要接到紅帖子，便叫我去吃，事實上是在學人家的辦桌菜，『三絲扣肚』、『雞仔豬肚鱉』、西滷肉、蹄膀、炸物這些辦桌菜就這樣入門了。

Chef Ming Tan Tsai Noodles who uses native food materials and is famous for exquisite seasonal set meals has had roots in Hualien from Luodong, Yilan for 41 years. Zhong-Ming Zhuang, who’s known as Master Zhuang is the founder of this restaurant, who opened a street stand beside Chang Hwa Bank of Hualien City in 1973. Chef Ming recalled his catering career which experienced a transformation every 10 years. 

Chef Ming stepped into the catering industry because of a call from his father. Chef Ming was born in 1956 and when he was 17 years old, he was still leaning photography on Xinyi Road, Taipei City, which was 41 years from now. But his father in Hualien suddenly decided to replace a snack food stand and do his own business. Paying NT$80,000’s replacement fee, Papa Zhuang learned the basic cooking skills from the boss of the snack food bar shortly in 40 days. But he lacked manpower, so Chef Ming, who is his eldest son, was called home to help him. The snack food stand was located beside Chang Hwa Bank of Hualien. Although it was just a street stand, it sold more than 50 dishes. Chef Ming recalled that, “We sold out nearly 220 Jin of rice a day. In the day, the stand mainly sold meat congee, pork skins, various fried dishes etc. In the evening, the younger brother would continue to sell salted shrimps, fried Chinese chives, and other wine dishes together with beer. So this street stand was nicknamed as “Chang Hwa Grand Hotel” by the local people. Chef Ming said that, at that time, they should get up 3 a.m. every day to prepare the food ingredients and dishes, with more than 10 assistants, and their daily turnover was around NTD10, 000 with a very good business. But soon, the society changed fast. Policies such as urban renewal were adopted, so the 12-yearold street stand came to an end. 

Later, Chef Ming opened A-Ming Seafood Restaurant beside Guo Sheng Theatre. But once helping friends hold a wedding banquet, he found the high profits in this industry, so he opened Seoul Restaurant which focused on hold wedding banquets etc., which opened Chef Ming’s another catering enterprise. “At that time, once father received a wedding invitation, he would let me attend to eat there. In fact, he was letting me learn others chefs’ banquet dishes. Thus I was introduced to banquet dishes like ‘Steamed Three Slices’, ‘Turtle with Chicken and Pork Intestines’, Braised Pork, Steamed Upper Pork Leg, Fried Food etc.”

因為家中的一些因素，銘師父結束了漢城餐廳，爾後在民國88年開設了「銘師父擔仔麵」，開始利用在地食材設計菜餚。這段期間，銘師父積極加入餐飲工會、青商會等，不僅擴大視野，也接觸更多的人、獲得更多廚藝交流的機會，也奠定銘師父後來能在中西餐不同文化元素間相互應用。為了永續經營，銘師父在民國99年買下現在店址所在的2400坪土地，餐廳並直接以「銘師父」命名。銘師父提到自己的品牌，有信心的說：「希望自己的這個招牌能清楚讓客人看到自己的特色，這個餐廳所有的元素，包括裝潢、採購、研發等都是我親手打造，我們也自己種有機蔬菜，能夠體驗蔬菜成長的過程。」

這幾年，銘師父已逐漸將餐廳交棒給第二代—民國74年次的莊育賢。銘師父說到這個兒子，腦海裡呈現當時在阿銘海產店時期，抓著兒子的小手一起煎蛋的畫面，「兒子當時才國小一年級，吵著要我教他做菜，於是就抓著他的手教他煎蛋，沒想到從那時候起，家中每天都有六顆蛋可以吃。」莊育賢國中畢業之後就在家中幫忙。但真正學習廚藝是在專一升專二期間，銘師父送他到好友陳兆麟的店裡--宜蘭渡小月當學徒，當兵退伍後，又與宜蘭渡小月的第二代一同到新都里日本料理餐廳工作一年，從莊育賢的菜餚擺盤設計，不難看出日本料理的元素穿插其間。在花蓮長大的莊育賢表示，花蓮的食材經常令人驚豔，花東縱谷還有很多食材可以探索發揮。他認為目前這家餐廳是爸爸的夢想基地，他則繼續協助爸爸圓夢，未來有機會還希望能夠微調轉型，將過去賣担仔麵的記憶再次找回來。看來，這位年輕的第二代已在為傳承做準備了。

In the recent year, Chef Ming is gradually passing on the restaurant to the second generation manager- Yu-Xian Zhuang who was born in 1985. When Chef Ming spoke of this son, he remembered the scene of holding the son’s hand to fry the omelet. I didn’t expect that, from then on, our family have 6 omelets to eat every day.” Yu-Xian Zhuang who grew up in Hualien, says that Hualien food materials are often amazing, and in East Rift Valley, Hualien, there are still so many food materials to explore. He thinks that the current restaurant is the dream base of his father, so he will continue to help his father realize his dream. In the future, if there is any opportunity, he still hopes to make some minor changes, to bring back again the past memory of selling Tan Tsai noodles. We can see that the young, second generation manager has already become ready to inherit this restaurant. 

胡瓜燉子排：以前從宜蘭剛搬來花蓮，生活較為困苦，阿嬤會將胡瓜醃製，於是結合這個老菜再加上子排的新菜結合而成。是夏季才有的季節菜色。

Stewed Pork Ribs with Cucumber: In the early times, when they moved from Yilan to Hualien, life was very hard. Grandma would pickle the cucumbers, and then combine this old dish with the new pork ribs dish. This is a seasonal dish in summer.

有機蔬菜佐咖啡松阪肉：採用花蓮當地咖啡產銷班的咖啡，加上自家種的有機蔬菜，在葉芽最嫩的時候採摘，並搭配當地的溫體黑豬肉。研發概念則源自新加坡的美食展展示菜餚。

Coffee Matsusaka Pork with Organic Vegetables: Choose coffee from the Hulian local coffee producing and marking team. Add the organic vegetables planted by them themselves and pick the vegetables when they have the tenderest leaves. Combine them with the local warm black pig’s pork. This dish’s development ideas originate from Singapore dishes exhibited at the food exhibition.

洄瀾春牛冬瓜宴：宜蘭的西滷肉老菜新作。將豬肉改成牛肉並鑲在冬瓜裏，卻仍保有台灣料理特有的元素。這道菜在2014年3月參加李錦記國際青年廚神賽獲得評審青睞，並奪得金牌。

Braised Beef with White Gourd: This is a newly-cooked dish from Yilan’s old dish Braised Pork. It replaces pork with beef and inserts it into the white gourd, and keeps the special element of Taiwanese cuisine. This dish was favored by judges in the Lee Kum Kee International Young Cooking God Competition and won the gold medal.

雞仔豬肚鱉：雞仔豬肚鱉象徵福祿壽，又名布袋雞，這道菜餚是傳統的手路菜。主要食材有土雞、鱉肉、豬肚等，在電影《總舖師》出現過的辦桌菜。

Turtle with Chicken and Pork Intestines: Turtle with Chicken and Pork Intestines represents happiness, prosperity and longevity, which is also named Bagged Chicken. This dish was a traditional home-cooked dish. The main food materials are free-range chicken, turtle meat, pork intestines etc. It appeared as the banquet dish in the movie Zone Pro Site.

金棗酥餅：此道甜點來自宜蘭棗餅的概念，過去因為油質不多，會加入豬油丁，現在則加入芋頭，成為一道創新甜點，也可做為雙拼或三拼之用。

Flaky Pastry with Golden Jujube: This dessert comes from the concept of Yilan’s jujube flaky pastry. In the past, since there was no that much oil, diced pork oil would be added in. But now, taro is added. A new creative dessert is made, which can also be used as part of the Assorted Two dishes or Assorted Three Dishes. 

地址：花蓮縣吉安鄉明義六街38巷22號
電話：03-8581122    
營業時間：11:30-14:00；17:30-21:30 
招牌菜：季節性套餐
交通方式：自花蓮火車站出發，車程約15-20分鐘即可抵達

Address: No. 22, Alley No. 38 , Mingyi Sixth Street, Ji’an Township, Hualien County
Telephone: 03-8581122    
Business Hours: 11:30-14:00; 17:30-21:30
Specialty: Seasonal set meal
Transportation    : Around 15-20 minutes’ drive from Hualien railway station to the restaurant