北平田園創立於民國65年，創立此間小館子的鄧慶瑜老先生，今年已是87歲高齡，故鄉北平的他目前已移民加拿大。但說起這家店的源頭，不能不提到民國42年的東山島之役。國軍在此役人員損失慘重，尤其是鄧爸爸當年所在的傘兵部隊，多數人不是戰死就是被俘，得以平安回到台灣的人，彼此間有一股很特別的生死情誼。因此鄧爸爸和一群戰友退伍後，便開了這家麵食館。這群來自北方的漢子憑著記憶做出家鄉味道，想到什麼就做什麼，因此山東伊府麵、四川旦旦麵、河南焙麵，甚至於槓子頭，都曾經在這裡出現過。小小的店面裡，還有蔣緯國將軍於民國68年題的「田園」二字，是對鄧爸爸照顧軍中同袍、凝聚眾人感情的期許與支持。
原本跟隨父親的腳步投考軍校從軍的鄧中平，民國51年出生，是創辦人鄧慶瑜先生的長子。早年報考軍校，從中正預校、海軍官校，一路讀到政治作戰學校畢業，並投身軍旅。在父親及叔伯們年紀漸長之後，離開了軍隊回到小麵館幫忙。卻發現自己從國家的大軍營投入家庭中的小軍營，父親軍事化的教育在他學習北平田園麵館中各種麵點時，不曾稍稍放鬆。年紀和輩份都最小的他，搬東西、揉麵，什麼粗活都交給他做。也因此練就一身製作牛肉麵的好身手。但他也看到市場與趨勢的變化，對於全部手工的工序產生懷疑，試圖找到更有效率的方法，這種嘗試常常與父親產生衝突。
Beiping Rural was built in 1976 and its founder, Mr. Qing-Yu Deng, is 87 years old. With its hometown as Beiping, he’s immigrated to Canada now. Speaking of this restaurant, we have to mention the Battle of Dongshan Island in 1953. Our National Revolutionary Army lost many soldiers in the battle, especially the paratroops Papa Deng was in. Most of his partners either died or captured. And those who returned to Taiwan safety had a special life-and-death friendship. So, together with a group of comrades-in-arms, Papa Deng opened this noodle restaurant. This group of men from northern China cooked the tastes of their hometown according to what was in their memory. So, Shandong Yifu Noodles, Sichuan Noodles in Chili Sauce, Henan Baked Noodles, and even Gunzitou Cake once appeared here. In this small restaurant, there are the two characters “Tian Yuan (Rural)” written by Wei-Guo Jiang in 1979, which signified the expectation and support for Papa Deng’s taking care of his army colleagues and unifying everybody.
Zhong-Ping Deng, who originally planned to follow his father’s steps and apply for the entrance examination of the military school, was born in 1962 and the first son of Mr. Qing-Yu Deng. In the early years, he applied for the military school, successively studying at Chung Cheng Armed Forces Preparatory School, R.O.C. Naval Academy and Fu Hsing Kang College. After his graduation, he joined the army. With his father and uncles were getting old, he left the army to help in the restaurant. He found that he left the national army camp, but entered a small family army camp. Under his father’s militarized education, he had never relaxed when learning how to cook various pastries in Beiping Rural. Being the youngest and most inferior, he did all the physical things, such as carrying stuff and kneading the dough. That’s why he became skilled at making Beef Noodles. But he also saw the changes of the market and trends, so he doubted the all-manual procedure and tried to find more effective ways, which often caused conflicts between the father and son.
三十五歲左右，開始接掌北平田園的經營。民國94年開始投入參與牛肉麵節的活動，或參與比賽，或參與相關活動，獲得許多獎項。店裡大大小小的獎盃、奬座，都是這幾年以牛肉麵手藝征戰海內外的佳績。順勢他也曾開設分店，分別在大葉高島屋、環球購物中心、台北車站微風廣場設點，甚至進駐華碩關渡大同廠的員工餐廳。由於個性直爽又熱心，也希望能推動台灣牛肉麵文化的國際化，曾經擔任「牛肉麵交流發展協會」第三屆理事長，直至民國102年卸任。然而，無論是百貨公司的美食街或是科技公司的員工餐廳，都要求標準化且出餐快速，鄧中平漸漸注意到在這個過程中逐漸消失的「人情」，最終還是決定退出那個強調標準化的戰場，只留下台北車站微風廣場（目前也已獨立，由親戚經營）以及在重慶南路巷子裡的本店。
他逐漸體會為何父親總是堅持手工切菜、撖皮、包餡，何以當年那些叔伯們就算長時間做著削麵的動作，手都已經彎曲變形，卻依然不願假手機器。那是他們半生戎馬、一世友誼的見證，大家每天一起準備材料，是彼此互相照應的親情，讓他們的每一碗麵、每一個餡餅裡都有他們生死與共的友誼、一起經營生計的努力。所以現今北平田園內所有產品仍堅持採純手工製作，並以天然、健康為主要宗旨，希望讓每位消費者都嚐到美味、道地的麵食。
另一方面，若說這一群老兵是北平田園快要四十年歲月中很重要的部分，來來往往的客人也扮演很特別的角色。早年在附近中央部會上班的外省籍公務員，每每來此用餐也會根據自己的印象提供家鄉味；晚幾年則是在補習街苦讀拚聯考的學子們補充能量的據點之一，再回來也已兒女成群。如今北平田園店裡的年輕服務人員在供餐之餘，還有許多顧客說著他們所不知道的故事。
如今的老板鄧中平表示，這家店不管怎麼樣，所供應的各式麵食、麵點一定堅持純手工製作，這不僅是為了父執輩那難以言喻的情誼和鄉愁，也是為那些曾在此留下生命足跡的老朋友。
When he was around 35, he took over the management of Beiping Rural. In 2005, he began taking part in the activity of the Beef Noodles Festival, or taking part in competitions, or joining in relevant activities, winning a lot of awards. Various award cups and trophies are exhibited In the restaurant, which are all the achievements of his beef noodle-making skill in wining prizes both home and abroad. In line with that, he once also opened branch restaurants, respectively at Dayeh Takashimaya, Global Mall, the Breeze Taipei Station and even the staff dining hall of Asus factory at Datong, Guandu. Being direct and warm hearted and hoping to promote the internationalization of Taiwanese Beef Noodle Culture, he once was the third president of the Beef Noodles Development Exchange Association and retired in 2013.
However, whether the restaurant at the food court of malls or the one at the staff dining hall of the technology company, they all require standardization and quick service. Zhong-Ping Deng gradually realized the fading “humanization” in this process, and finally decided to withdraw from the battlefield of emphasizing standardization. Only the one at Breeze Taipei Station (currently being run by a relative) and the original restaurant in the alley of Zhongzheng South Road were left.
He gradually understood why his father always insisted on manually cutting the vegetables, pressing the skins, and wrapping the dressings, and why those uncles sliced the dough for such a long time that their hands had twisted, but they were still not willing to use fake-hand machines. He saw their half-military life and whole life-long friendship. Every day, they prepared the materials together, and took care of each other. Such kinship made every bowl of their noodles and every pie contain their life-and-death friendship and the endeavor of managing the business together. So, even today, all the products in Beiping Rural still insist on being purely handmade, and through the main principles of being natural and healthy, Beiping Rural hopes to let every customer taste the delicious and native pastries.
Current boss Zhong-Ping Deng expressed that, no matter what the restaurant is like, it is crucial to insist that all the pastries are made using handmade procedures. This is not just for his father’s generation’s friendship and homesickness, but also for the old friends who have left their life’s steps here.
牛肉捲餅：將牛腱片、黃瓜絲、大蔥等材料放在煎得香酥的餅皮上，淋上甜麵醬，捲成滾筒狀，一口咬下，可以嘗到多層次口感和味道。
Beef Roll: Spread cooked beef shank slices, sliced cucumber, green Chinese onion and other materials onto the fried tasty and crispy pie crust, add some sweet sauce, and roll it into a barrel shape. Bite into it, and you will taste multi-layer tastes and flavors.
韭菜盒：東北口味的韭菜盒，以冷水麵製成外皮，韭菜、粉絲、蝦皮、蛋皮做內餡，不用油全程乾烙至熟。來自東北的客人都覺得口味道地。
Chinese Chives Pie: This is the Chinese Chives Pie with a flavor of Northeast China. The crust is made from cold-water dough, and the dressing is made of Chinese chives, bean vermicelli, dried small shrimps and fried egg pieces. Bake it until it’s well-done, and no oil is used during the whole process. Even customers from the northeast think that the pie has a native taste.
番茄牛肉麵：大塊牛筋與牛肉加上燉煮熟透的整顆去皮番茄，加上彈牙的刀削麵，是在民國98年牛肉麵節的得獎牛肉麵。可惜因為器材出問題而與冠軍失之交臂。
Tomato Beef Noodles: Large pieces of beef tendon, and the boiled and peeled whole tomato, and the elastic sliced noodles form the prize-winning Beef Noodles at the 2009 Beef Noodles Festival. It lost the champion’s place only because of deficient equipment.
鮮肉蒸餃：豬絞肉是買豬肉來自己絞的，與切碎的韭黃混合做餡，燙麵製成外皮，手工包製蒸熟而成。後來也延伸出以青江菜為主要材料的花素蒸餃。
Steamed Fresh-Meat Dumplings: The ground pork is ground by the restaurant itself. Mix it with the minced hotbed chives to make the dressing. Use hot-water dough as the crust and wrap it manually. Later the Steamed Vegetable Dumplings, using spoon cabbage as the main ingredient, was also developed from it.
牛肉餡餅：北平田園最受歡迎的品項之一，全盛時期每天所賣的餡餅，其使用的肉餡得用上洗臉盆大小的容器裝成小山般高，共七大盆。使用黃瓜條和牛肩胛里肌肉，以秘方調味。
Beef Pie: This is one of the most popular dishes of Beiping Rural. In the heyday, the sold pies used seven washbasin-sized vessels for dressing, all piled up like a small mountain. The special recipe uses cucumber slices and lean beef shoulder meat.
地址：台北市中正區重慶南路一段5巷3號
電話：02-23148032
營業時間：11:00-14:00；17:00-20:00；三大節、過年公休
招牌菜：番茄牛肉麵、牛肉捲餅、蒸點類、牛肉餡餅、韭菜盒
交通方式：捷運臺北車站站，站前地下街忠Z8出口步行約10分鐘；公車搭乘15、220(直達車)、247、287、605等路線至重慶路一段下車
Address: No.3, Ln. 5, Sec. 1, Chongqing S. Rd., Zhongzheng Dist., Taipei City
Telephone: 02-23148032
Business Hours: 11:00-14:00; 17:00-20:00; closed on New Year’s Day, Dragon Boat Festival, Middle Autumn Day and Spring Festival.
Specialty: Tomato Beef Noodles, Beef Roll, Steamed Dim Sum, beef pie, Chinese chives pie.
Transportation: Arrive at Metro station Taipei Main Station and take Z8 exit of the station’s underground shopping street and walk for around another 10 minutes. Take Bus No. 15, 220 (through bus), 247, 287, 605 etc. and get off at Section 1 of Zhongzheng Road.
留言列表
北部店家 Northern Taiwan (4)
