臺灣餐飲老店 Long-established Restaurants in Taiwan

有「豬腳的故鄉」之稱的屏東萬巒鄉是南部客家重鎮，民風淳樸，附近有全台最古老的萬金教堂，為知名的觀光景點。在民國38年，海鴻、熊家、萬泰等現今知名的豬腳店在此地陸續開店，「林家豬腳」也是其中的一份子。

「林家豬腳」創辦人林陳玉妹嫁至林家後，為了貼補家用，在萬巒鄉的路邊擺攤賣客家粄條等麵食，某天她忽然興起將豬腳做為配菜的念頭，決定先滷兩隻試試水溫，這個臨時起意的舉動竟造成大轟動，在那個吃豬肉是奢侈行為的年代，林陳玉妹的豬腳第一天賣兩隻、第二天賣四隻，販售數量以倍數成長，慢慢打響名號，遂將豬腳變成主打商品，民國70年，與全家便利商店合作，推出豬腳便當，更是一炮而紅。

「林家豬腳」好吃的秘訣在於核心的滷包，中藥配方這六十幾年來不曾換過；豬腳則嚴選具有CAS認證的豬前腿，肉質較紮實Q彈。逢年過節，一天要滷四、五千隻豬腳是司空見慣之事，尤其是到了孤鸞年，依照習俗出嫁的女兒要帶豬腳回娘家，這天店裡必定忙得不可開交。

Wanluan Township in Pingtung is known as the “hometown of pig’s feet”, and it is the hub of the Hakka population in southern Taiwan, where the people are simple, honest, and down-to-earth. Immaculate Conception Minor Basilica is not only the oldest church in Taiwan but also a renowned tourist destination. In 1949, now prominent pig’s feet restaurants such as Haihong, Xiongjia and Wantai all opened business here, including Lin Family’s Pig’s Feet.

After marrying her husband Lin, the founder of Lin Family’s Pig’s Feet Yu-Mei Lin Chen setup a roadside stall to sell Hakka Bantiao (Rice Noodle) in Wanluan Township in order to increase family income. One day, she had an epiphany about serving pig’s feet as a side dish, therefore she decided to braise two pig’s feet to test the market; to her surprise, her idea took the market by storm. At the time, eating pork was considered a luxury, and she managed to sell 2 pig’s feet in the first day and 4 the following day, the number grew exponentially and her reputation was gradually established. As a result, pig’s feet became a mainstay product. In 1981, she collaborated with FamilyMart to launch the pig’s feet lunch box, which became an instant sensation.  

The secret to Lin Family’s Pig’s Feet lies in the quintessential soy sauce stew sachet formulated according to a 60 year-old Chinese herbal medicine recipe. CAS certified pork shoulders are used due to their substantial texture and elasticity. It is common to braise 4~5,000 pig’s feet every day during Chinese New Year or other festivals. In particular, according to custom, married women are required to take home pig’s feet to her parents during Widow’s Year, therefore the restaurant are always inundated with customer orders.

民國73年，林家豬腳申請營業登記，開始有了店面，原想取作「萬巒豬腳」，但因地名無法註冊，林陳玉妹決定直接用夫家的姓，正名為「林家豬腳」。現在林陳玉妹即使已屆八十四歲高齡，並已將主要經營權轉交給第三代林家媛，但仍將店懸掛在心，常到店內叮囑員工認真工作，監督環境衛生，一刻都閒不下來。

店長鍾智瑋以身為客家人為榮，他將豬腳與客家菜做結合，提供客家傳統「四炆四炒」，成為全國唯一一家萬巒豬腳搭配客家美食的餐廳。他認為，粄條與豬腳的味道堪稱絕配，既然有了粄條，何不再加入其他具有代表性的客家菜。甩肉丸湯就是一道經典的南部客家菜，肉丸用手來回摔打，肉丸嚐起來較Q彈。鍾智瑋也提到，過去曾有一道叫「鳳梨炒木耳豬肺」口感極佳，可惜因豬肺膽固醇含量太高，現代人不易接受，此道菜現已失傳。

最近「林家豬腳」因豬腳街進行整修，將店移至「六堆文化客家園區」，完美結合觀光與客家美食，以前的「林家豬腳」鮮少做宣傳，幾乎是經由人們口耳相傳，一步步累積人氣，建立起好口碑。近幾年來，鍾智瑋開始在行銷上下功夫，並積極參加客委會輔導，善用政府資源，在他的努力下，獲得許多認證標章，加上現在媒體、網路傳播迅速，許多外地遊客慕名而來。鍾智瑋的終極目標為，將丈母娘的這家店發展為全國最好的客家餐廳。發揮客家人「硬頸」的精神，搭配得天獨厚的地理環境，相信這個夢不會只是空想，而是已經在實踐的道路上。

In 1984, Lin Family’s Pig’s Feet applied for business registration and established its restaurant. Although the restaurant was to be named Wanluan Pig’s Feet originally, the geographical name Wanluan could not be registered, therefore Yu-Mei Lin Chen decided to use her husband’s family surname and adopted the official name of “Lin Family’s Pig’s Feet”. Now, at an age of 84, although Yu-Mei Lin Chen has passed the family business to her son-in-law Zhi-Wei Zhong, the restaurant is still constantly on her mind and she frequently visits the stall to oversee environmental hygiene and remind employees to work diligently. She likes to keep herself occupied. 

Her successor Zhi-Wei Zhong is a proud member of the Hakka community; by combining pig’s feet with Hakka cuisines, his restaurant offers traditional Hakka “4 times braising and 4 times stir-frying” dishes  to become the first restaurant in Taiwan serving pig’s feet in conjunction with Hakka cuisine. He believes bantiao is a perfect match for the flavor of pig’s feet. If bantiao can be served with pig’s feet, why not incorporate other iconic Hakka dishes? Hakka meatball soup is one such classic southern Hakka dish; the hand kneaded meatballs are chucked repeatedly to create the chewy texture. Zhi-Wei Zhong has also mentioned a classic dish called stir-fried pork lungs with pineapple and Jew’s ear; unfortunately due to the high cholesterol content of pork lungs, the dish gradually lost its appeal among the health-conscious modern patrons and it is now lost forever.  

The ultimate goal of Zhi-Wei Zhong is to transform his mother-in-law’s restaurant into the best Hakka restaurant in the country. His spirit of Hakka “perseverance” is combined with the unique geographical environment of the region to gradually realize the dream one small bit at a time. 

萬巒豬腳：選用CAS豬前腿，將糖、醬油、鹽巴、麥芽糖、中藥一起下去滷，一鍋至少可滷二十隻，沾醬是將醬油、蒜頭、醬油膏一起下去打，無勾芡，健康無負擔。

Wanluan pork’s feet: CAS certified pork shoulders are braised in conjunction with sugar, soy sauce, salt, malt sugar and Chinese traditional medicine. At least 20 pork’s feet can be braised at one time. The dipping sauce is mixed using soy sauce, garlic and soy sauce paste without adding starch to ensure health and light taste. 

客家粄條：手工粄條，以在來米製作口感較紮實，加入豆芽菜、韭菜、肉絲、蝦米，油蔥酥與蝦米的爆香味是此道菜的重點。

Hakka bantiao (rice noodle): The handmade bantiao is produced using indica rice to give a firmer texture. The bantiao is complemented by bean sprouts, leeks, pork juliennes and dried shrimps. The sautéed flavor of the shallot crisps and dried shrimps is the major selling point of this dish. 

薑絲大腸：傳統客家菜之一，放鹹菜切絲拌炒，呈現自然的酸味，不用放太多一般常用的醋精，味道較爽口，並加入蒜苗增加香味。

Pig’s intestines stir-fried with ginger juliennes: This is one of the traditional Hakka dishes. Chinese pickled vegetable juliennes are stir-fried with pig’s intestine; no vinegar concentrate is added to give a lighter taste and garlic sprouts are added to enhance the aroma. 

炸豆腐：使用傳統少見的板豆腐下去炸，淋上以豬腳做基底經過酸化的自做醬汁，一塊塊正方形的豆腐向上堆疊，兼具味覺與視覺的享受。

Deep-fried tofu: Unconventional pressed tofu is deep-fried and drizzled with acidified homemade sauce stewed from pork’s feet. Blocks of deep-fried tofu are piled on top of one another to present a gustatory and visual feast. 

客家小炒：道地的客家菜餚，將乾魷魚絲、豆干、五花肉絲、芹菜、蔥、蒜一起拌炒，並以蝦米爆香，香味大大提升。

Hakka stir-fry: The authentic Hakka dish is prepared by stir-frying dried squid strips, dried tofu, streaky pork juliennes, celery, spring onion and garlic and complemented by sautéed dried shrimps to significantly enhance its aroma. 

地址：屏東縣內埔鄉建新村信義路588號
電話：08-7810835
營業時間：8:00-20:00；週一公休
招牌菜：萬巒豬腳、客家小炒、薑絲大腸、甩肉丸、花生豆腐
交通方式：至屏東火車站轉搭屏東客運8230號路線，到達六堆園區站下車

Address: No. 588, Xinyi Rd., Jianxin Village, Neibu Township, Pingtung County 
Telephone: 08-7810835
Business hours: 8:00-20:00: Closed on Mondays 
Signature dishes: Wanluan pig’s feet, Hakka stir-fry, pig’s intestines stir-fried with ginger juliennes, Hakka meatballs
Transport and directions    : Disembark at Pingtung Train Station and take No.8230 PT Bu. Disembark at Liudui Hakka Cultural Park Station.