臺灣餐飲老店 Long-established Restaurants in Taiwan

位在台南市最南端的灣裡，有一家已傳承至第三代的「咩 灣裡羊肉店」，創辦人葉丁進已屆八十六歲高齡，雖已交棒給後代，仍每天至店內坐鎮巡視，看著自己努力打拼的事業。葉丁進原本經營冰品店，後來覺得冬天來一碗溫暖的羊肉湯是種享受，將店轉型為夏天賣冰品，冬天改賣羊肉的小攤家。某天朋友建議何不直接改賣羊肉，如此一來四季皆可賺錢，為了掙更多錢養家，葉丁進決定收起冰店，並買下台南戲院附近的羊肉店，在民國68年正式開業專心賣羊肉，沒想到戲院竟逢祝融，店也無辜遭受池魚之殃，只好搬至興南街，當時是個用帆布搭建，規模僅二至三坪的小店，卻被政府以占用公地的理由被迫遷移，幾經輾轉才移到現在的興南街36號。

葉丁進從小接受日本教育，因此做事態度相當嚴謹，「咩 灣裡羊肉店」一天只賣一頭羊，特別之處為吃起來並沒有大家所詬病的羊騷味，秘訣就在於葉丁進發現本土黑山羊其實有等級之分，已配種過的公羊與生產過的母羊皆不適合料理，故堅持使用出生六個月就去勢的溫體小羊，即使成本相差一倍，也絕對不用從國外進口、不知何謂品種的冷凍羊，因賣羊肉，加上小名叫「阿泉」而有了「羊泉爺爺」的稱號。

葉丁進退休後，決定將掌廚權轉交給大女兒葉淑惠，她幼年時因罹患小兒痲痺導致右腳萎縮不便行走，求學中斷後就留在父親身邊學習，每天凌晨五點就開始準備，一做就是二十幾年。兩年前，兒子林英輝跌破媽媽的眼鏡，一退伍就決定扛下家裡的羊肉事業，他的理由是：「別人家的羊肉又比不上自家的好吃、特別」，決心將家族事業推至更上層樓。

Situated in Wanli, southernmost part of Tainan City, the BAA Wanli Mutton Restaurant has been in existence for 3 generations. The founder Ye, Ding-Jin is now 86 years old; although the baton was passed down to his successor, he still visits the restaurant everyday to oversee the operations and keep an eye on the business he has built from the ground up. Originally, Ye owned an ice cream parlor, but he subsequently felt that what a sheer delight it would be to enjoy a bowl of warm mutton soup in the winter, therefore he decided to make a transformation by selling ice cream in summer and mutton in winter. One day, his friend advised him why not simply sell mutton to earn money all year round; in order to support his family, he was determined to close the ice cream parlor and purchase a mutton restaurant near the Tainan Theater and committed fully to selling mutton in 1979. Unfortunately, when the theater was burned down, his restaurant was also destroyed, and he had no choice but to move to Xingnan St. and start a roughly 10m2 stall constructed using tarpaulin. Unluckily, he was forced to relocate again on the charge of illegal occupation of public land. After several relocations, Ye finally settled at No.36, Xingnan St., the current address of the restaurant. 

Having received a Japanese education since he was little, Ye adopted a meticulous attitude towards work. BAA Wanli Mutton Restaurant only sells one goat per day, and its unique aspect is the lack of undesirable odor typically found in conventional mutton. The secret lies in the fact that Ye has discovered subtle differences in the Taiwan black goat; bucks that have mated and nannies that have given birth are not suitable for cooking. As a result, he insists using freshly slaughtered goats that have been castrated at 6 months old; despite costing twice as much, he never imports frozen mutton of unknown species from abroad. Since he sold mutton and had the nickname of “A Quan”, therefore he was given the name of “Grandpa Yangquan”. 

林英輝一決定接業，就向媽媽學了一個月的料理技術，每天炒羊肉，這三年來至少炒了快一萬次，充滿企圖心的他在市中心附近開了第二家店，營造中、日合併的氣氛，風格與本店迥異，迷你的空間僅容納五張桌子，沒想到第一年就超支，味道甚至還被客人嫌棄，決定回歸本店打穩基礎。他將店後面的一塊荒蕪空地改為倉庫，把料理區與雜物區分開，塑膠器具改為瓷器碗，並進行內部裝潢、加裝冷氣，將店做更有制度的規劃。在兩年前決定開始販售羊肉爐，在開賣前，他跑遍中南部，一天至少觀摩三家店，吸取各店精華，但他並不追隨傳統羊肉爐的做法，改採清燉的方式，由於羊肉本身就有補氣、開胃健力等功效，不必多此一舉再放中藥，如此一來即使夏天吃也不會上火。

林英輝堅持要做就要做到最好，將自己的興趣應用到餐廳經營上，特地設計一個專屬logo，並在原店名「灣裡羊肉店」前加上一個「咩」字，強化品牌形象，近年還獲得中華民國養羊協會的「國產羊肉專賣店認證」。
回首過往，羊泉爺爺投入畢生心血，一點一滴地做調整才有現在的味道，「全心投入工作，窮極一生磨練技能，終能達到顛峰」是他們三代一路走來的信念。

After his retirement, Ye, Ding-Jin decided to pass on the baton to his eldest daughter Ye, Shu-Hui. Ever since she contracted polio during her infancy, she became incapacitated and unable to walk due to muscular atrophy, which took a heavy toll on her studies. After discontinuing her schooling, she remained by her father’s side to learn the ropes. Everyday, she starts preparing at 05:00 in the morning, and she has done so for more than two decades. Two years ago, her son Lin, Ying-Hui surprised her by deciding to take the helm of the family mutton business after discharging from military service. His rationale for doing so was “Nobody ’s mutton is as delicious and as special as ours”. He was determined to elevate the family business to the next level. 

In retrospect, Grandpa Yangquan has invested his entire life savings to build his empire one mutton hot pot at a time. “To be committed to work and hone one’s skills throughout one’s life in order to accomplish perfection” is the philosophy that has been passed down for 3 generations. 

羊肉炒芥蘭：嚴選當日現宰本土小羔羊，搭配羊大骨湯底川燙過的白芥蘭菜。精心挑選的芥蘭菜，無粗梗無苦味，配上處理過的薑片少了以往的腥辣味。

Stir-fried mutton with Chinese broccoli: Only lambs slaughtered on the day are used in conjunction with Chinese broccoli boiled in bone marrow broth. The meticulously handpicked Chinese broccoli is free from hard stems and bitterness, which complements specially prepared ginger slices to present a flavor without gaminess and spiciness. 

羊泉羊肉爐：以清燉湯底呈現，即使夏天吃也不覺得燥熱，是清爽不膩的湯底。高品質嚴選的全羊僅能製作14份羊肉爐，純手切帶皮羊肉，Q彈有勁。

Yangquan Mutton Hot Pot: The clear, refreshing broth will not cause internal heat in the body even if consumed during summer. Only 14 hot pots can be prepared using an entire lamb, the hand chopped mutton is served with skin to give a chewy and elastic texture.

涼拌羊頭肉：一頭羊僅能供應七人份，將羊頭肉熬煮3小時以上，去骨留下好吃的肉質部位，調味以清醬油與黑烏醋為底，口感膠質滑嫩，開胃佳餚之前菜。

Cold mutton cheeks: Only 7 portions of this dish can be prepared using one lamb. The mutton cheeks are braised for at least 3 hours and deboned to preserve the most delicious portion of the mutton. The meat is seasoned with soy sauce and black vinegar to give a gelatinous, tender texture. The dish is best served as an appetizer. 

羊肉湯：湯以炆火熬七個小時，清爽不油膩，沒有羊騷味，羊肉部分加入少許米酒提味，採用羊的腰內肉，肉質軟嫩，以榨菜取代酸菜，是創辦人的獨家配方。

Mutton soup: The soup is braised for 7 hours to create the refreshing flavor without the gaminess typical of mutton. A sprinkle of rice wine is added to the mutton filet mignon, which has a tender texture. Pickled mustard tube is used in place of pickled cabbage, representing the founder’s unique recipe. 

羊肝：以麻油爆炒薑片與羊肝，薑在炒之前先泡水淡化，吃起來較不辛辣，羊肝肉質軟嫩，品嚐起來香濃味美。

Mutton liver: The mutton liver is sautéed with sesame oil and ginger slices. The ginger slices are soaked in water prior cooking to abate its spiciness and complement the tender texture of the mutton liver, making it a rich flavored, delicious delicacy. 

地址：台南市南區同安里興南街36號
電話：06-2960764    
營業時間：10:00-14:00；16:00-21:00；週三、六、日中午不休息；週四公休
招牌菜：羊肉炒芥蘭、涼拌羊頭肉、羊泉羊肉爐
交通方式：至台南火車站再轉計程車前往約20分鐘車程

Address: No.36, Xingnan St., Tongan Li, South Dist., Tainan City
Telephone: 06-2960764
Business hours: 10:00-14:00；16:00-21:00; open at noon on Wed./Sat./Sun; closed on Thurs.    
Signature dishes: Stir-fried mutton with Chinese broccoli, cold mutton cheeks, Yangquan mutton hot pot
Transport and directions:    Disembark at Tainan Train Station and take a taxi to reach the destination (roughly 20 minutes driving time).