臺灣餐飲老店 Long-established Restaurants in Taiwan

石園活魚餐廳創辦人陳惠慶先生，24歲那年跟著大陸部隊從舟山群島撤退來台，民國63年48歲退役，於龍潭鄉佳安村創立石園活魚餐廳。四十年來，顛覆傳統活魚三吃，首創第四種活魚吃法，餐廳設置選魚區，讓客人自行挑選魚貨，至今已創新近二百種魚的吃法，締造石門吃活魚的風潮，開創活魚傳奇故事。

供給臺北、桃園及新竹家庭與工業用水的石門水庫，初期管制魚類捕撈和飼養，後來魚權開放，新鮮活魚供應市場，衍生出石門活魚飲食文化。早年全盛時期有110家活魚餐廳，至今餘57家。石園活魚餐廳如何在當年的競爭激烈、如今又經營艱困的市場中長久經營、歷久不衰，第二代經營者陳淑儀總經理說：「父親溫良敦厚、勇於突破、不斷創新的性格是成功的最大關鍵」。

The founder of Shi Yuan Fish Restaurant is Hui-Qing Chen, who’s born in 1924 and came to Tainwan from the Mainland together with the withdrawing troops when he was 26 years old. In 1974, when he was 48 years old, he left the army and founded the Shi Yuan Fish Restaurant in Jia’an Village, Longtan Township. In its 40 years’ history, they overturned the traditional three ways of eating a fish, and invented a fourth way. The restaurant sets up a fish picking area in the pond, to let the customers pick the fish by themselves. To this day, they already have around 200 ways of eating fish, start the Taiwanese trend of going to Shihmen to eat fish, and create the legend of fish.

At first, Shihmen Reservoir, which provides the domestic and industrial water of Taipei, Taoyuan and Hsinchu, forbade the fishing and raising of fish in it. Later, the right of fishing and was opened to the public, and its fresh fish was provided to the market, which give birth to Shihmen’s fish eating culture. In the beginning heyday, there were 110 fish restaurants in total, among which, 57 survive to this day. As for how Shi Yuan Fish Restaurant has continued its prosperity for such a long time, regardless of the early fierce competition and current difficult market, G.M. Shu-I Chen, the second-generation manager of Shi Yuan Fish Restaurant said, her father is gentle and honest, dares to make a breakthrough and is unceasingly innovative, which is the most important reason.

當年的活魚老街有三家餐廳，石園活魚餐廳是第三家設立的餐廳，陳惠慶先生以新鮮味美、價格實惠為號召，靠著「差異化」賣別人沒有的菜色，如芝麻包等，讓鄰近中山科學研究院及石門水庫管理局員工成為餐廳的主要顧客，他們多是高學歷、收入頗豐的一群，對於新鮮美味的菜餚有較高的消費能力，所以石園的生意硬是比其他兩家店興隆，獨占鰲頭。當年他為了讓其他店有生意，餐廳總會提早打烊，顯見陳惠慶先生寬厚待人的一面，也獲得鄰里間的敬重與讚賞。

擁有美國醫療管理及老人學碩士學位的陳甄珍副總回憶：「為了提高出菜效率，父親不惜成本，請專人設計軟體，在民國80年開始使用電腦，減少顧客等菜時間，也降低顧客抱怨」。民國90年她自美返台協助父親管理餐廳，大刀闊斧地進行SOP標準化流程、衛生管理及職掌分工等改革，一開始老員工紛紛表達抗議，但獲得顧客的一致推崇後，才慢慢接受她這個老闆小女兒的「創新」，反觀餐飲業近年才推行點餐E化、食品安全自主管理等機制，這些措施在石園活魚餐廳早已實施多年。

在石園活魚餐廳服務超過三十年的行政主廚廖振伍師傅，專精川菜料理，擁有廚師乙級證照，關於石門活魚料理，他說活魚菜餚的類型有如台灣飲食文化變遷的縮影，從初期的眷村菜跨越中華八大菜系料理，到適合台灣人口味的異國料理，直至為滿足顧客需求，運用魚膘、魚鱗、魚骨等特殊部位烹調的菜餚，到近年陸續推出的養生餐、使用在地食材的低碳料理，再再反映出台灣人從過去到現在對餐飲文化品味的需求與改變。

On those days, there were 3 restaurants in the Fish Old Street, and Shi Yuan Fish Restaurant is the third one to be opened. But her father provided fresh and tasty food, at areasonable price, and special dishes (such as sesame steamed stuffed bun, Dateplum persimmon coffee exported from Dihua Street, Taipei) others didn’t have to differentiate his restaurant. As a result, Shi Yuan Fish Restaurant attracted its frequenters from the nearby CSIST and the Shihmen Reservior Management Agency. Most of them were well-educated and had a fairly high wage, and who had quite a high consumption capacity for high-quality products, so Shi Yuan’s business was better than the other 2, leading the industry. In order to leave some business to the other two restaurants, her father always closed the restaurant earlier, which showed her father’s friendliness and won the respect and appreciation of his neighbors.

看好石門未來的觀光資產，陳甄珍攻讀開南大學運輸觀光學院碩士在職專班，就是為了加強自己在餐飲與觀光這兩方面的知識與實務，她相信石門將成為台灣最適合避暑度假的新勝地，不管是自然景觀、人文資產、美食觀光都能順勢而為，未來石園活魚餐廳將結合美食、觀光、休閒，為台灣人打造日趨講究慢活與樂活的健康生活與觀光需求的取向發展。

Confident towards the future sightseeing potential of Shihmen, Chen-Chen Chen has entered herself for the examination of In-service Master Education Program at the College of Transportation and Sightseeing, Kainan University, to enhance her knowledge and practice in catering and sightseeing. She believes that Shihmen will become a new one of Taiwan’s most suitable summer/holiday resorts. Together with its natural scenery, cultural heritage, food and sightseeing, the future Shi Yuan Fish Restaurant will integrate delicious food, sightseeing and recreation, to meet the life and sightseeing demands of aging Taiwanese.

紅橋魚餅：鮮綿的魚肉將桔餅和冬瓜糖完美的融合在土司上，沾滿芝麻、撲鼻的香氣比傳統喜餅更香、更健康。

Hongqiao Fish Cake：Fresh and silky fish meat perfectly combines with the flattened oranges and candied melon onto the toast. Filled with sesame and having a strong fragrance, it’s more tasty and healthier than the traditional wedding cakes.

翡翠糖醋魚：此菜餚著重於魚中段的表現，以花刀處理使其口感更為香脆入味，呈現魚料理的多樣性，酸甜可口。

Jade Fish in Sweet and Sour Sauce：This dish emphasizes the middle part of a fish. Handling it with mixed cutting will make it taste delicious, crispy and full of flavor. It shows the diversity of fish cooking, having the correct sour and sweet taste.

老爹的魚：創辦人專為愛女做的魚料理，將色澤鮮亮，口感脆嫩的酸菜切細末，使甘甜、鹹酸入湯汁，透過時間和火候慢熬，使魚肉入味，此菜開胃、增進食慾、幫助消化。

Papa’s Fish：The founder especially made this for his daughter. This fish dish has bright colors. Cut the crispy and tender prickled vegetable into pieces, so that the sweet and sour flavor can enter the soup. Then cook it on a gentle heat for enough time. The flavors will enter the fish. This dish can whet the appetite and aid digestion.

陶板絲瓜魚：超受歡迎的時令佳餚，翠綠絲瓜搭配未調味的鮮魚，藉由薑的提味，吃出食材的原味與鮮嫩，湯汁亦鮮甜。

Taoban Loofah Fish：This seasonal dish is very popular. Matching green loofah with the unflavored fresh fish,  the flavor is improved with ginger. The food materials’ original taste and tenderness is retained. The soup is also fresh and sweet.

XO醬爆魚方：石園自創，選用魚肉製成的XO醬，具有干貝的口感卻無膽固醇的負擔，加入滑嫩魚片拌炒，既健康又好吃。

XO Fried Fish with Soy Sauce：This dish is created by Shi Yuan. Choose the XO sauce made from fish meat. It has the taste of dried scallops, but you don’t need to worry about cholesterol. Smooth and tender fish slices are added to be fried together, which is both healthy and tasty.

地址：桃園縣龍潭鄉三坑村中正路三坑段711號

電話：03-4712456

營業時間：9:30-21:00

招牌菜：紅橋魚餅、翡翠糖醋魚、老爹的魚、陶板絲瓜魚、XO醬爆魚方

交通方式：距離中壢火車站約30分鐘車程；桃園高鐵站約35分鐘車程

Address: No.711, Sec. Sankeng, Zhongzheng Rd., Sankeng Village, Longtan Town, Taoyuan County.

Telephone: 03-4712456 

Business Hours: 9:30-21:00

Specialty: Hongqiao Fish Cake, Jade Fish in Sweet and Sour Sauce, Papa’s Fish, Taoban Loofah Fish, XO Braised Fish with Soy Sauce.

Transportation: 30 minutes' driving to Jhongli Train Station; 35 minutes' driving to HSR Taoyuan Station.