臺灣餐飲老店 Long-established Restaurants in Taiwan

春天適合上烏來賞櫻花、坐臺車、走情人步道、看瀑布，若時間充裕能在這裡過夜就更好不過，看著對面蓊蓊鬱鬱的山壁，泡著溫泉，若此時落下小雨，不管是清晨或黃昏，甚至是夜裡都很浪漫。泡完溫泉，吃著當地當令的時蔬和清澈澗水中的鮮魚做的料理，補充了精力也洗刷了疲憊。

 

烏來從清朝中期開始就是原住民的泰雅族居住之地，日治時代開始開發溫泉，之後，溫泉飯店因應而生。烏來的溫泉屬於碳酸中性溫泉，是很多想泡溫泉又怕硫磺味的人首選。烏來歷史最悠久的溫泉旅館碧山閣經營者孟昭棟說：「烏來的溫泉水是老天爺給的禮物，是給有福氣的人享用的。中研院正在研究其中的『烏來溫泉菌』，所以也有人稱這裡的溫泉是『藥泉』。」姑且不論是否真能抗癌，多在山野林趣中泡湯，流一身汗，心情輕鬆，自然能延年益壽。

 

Wulai has been Taiyal people’s living place since the middle of Qing dynasty. Hot springs have been developed since Japanese Occupation Period. Owing to it, hot springs hotels emerge. Hot springs in Wulai belong to neutral carbonated hot springs, which is the best choice for those afraid of the smell of Sulphur. The operator of Bishange, the oldest hot springs hotel in Wulai, said, “Academia Sinica is now studying on ‘bacteria of Wulai hot springs’so the hot springs here are also called ‘medical springs.’” Whether the hot springs can resist cancers or not, bathing in hot springs in the forest, sweating, and being relaxed can naturally prolong your life and make you healthy.

 

碧山閣飯店在烏來林立的溫泉飯店中，經營已經五十幾年，位於烏來老街的起點，早年以日本客人為主，近年來改走大眾化路線。因為在這裡經營很久，對於烏來的環境保護特別關心。孟昭棟說：「現在居民會盡量站在水源保護角度來開發，反而能保留自然生態。有清澈的河水，自然便會有新鮮的魚，也自然有鳥類水鴨聚集。」說著便看到溪邊聚集了一群綠頭鴨游來游去。

 

正因為好山好水，碧山閣的料理大多取自當地。清蒸鱒魚是碧山閣招牌菜，只在清澈水中成長的鱒魚，清蒸保留原味就很好吃。當令的桂竹筍，與當地生產的椴木香菇熬雞湯、藥燉山鰻、栗子燒鱉、珠蔥炒蛋等，大多採用在地食材。當然也採用泰雅人常用的香料馬告，用來燉雞或烤雞，都香氣四溢。「荷香福山魚」則是碧山閣名菜，曾因此拿下烏來區餐廳冠軍。

 

溫泉鄉的旅客特別多，不時會遇到特殊的客人。小故事但也令人印象深刻，曾接待過一位澳洲回來的貴婦，她說年輕時曾來烏來碧山閣度蜜月住宿過，因此從澳洲回來此地重遊，回味年輕時光。泡溫泉賞櫻花，即使數年後，物是人非，但誰能忘記人生中的此情此景呢？在碧山綠水中，烏來櫻花依舊，碧山閣也兀自矗立在山中，默默見證了許多人的人生。

Trouts, Makino bamboo shoots, and chicken soup cannot be missed.

Bishange Hotel has been run for fifty years in Wulai and is located in the starting point of Wulai old street. In the past, it mainly served Japanese customers but now it serves the public. Because being in Wulai for a long time, the hotel cares about the environmental protection in Wulai. Meng Zhao-Dong said, “Having clear rivers, fish, birds, and teals will gather again.”

Because of the beautiful mountains and waters, Bishanhe’s cuisines usually use local ingredients. Steamed trout is the signature of Bishange. Steaming the trout growing up in clear water is delicious. The seasonal Makino bamboo shoots, chicken soup with local dried linden wood mushrooms, stewed eel with Chinese herbs, stewed soft-shell turtle with chestnuts, and fried eggs with scallions are made from local ingredients. Of course, the restaurant often uses mountain pepper, Taiya’s spice, to stew or roast chicken. “Fushan fish with fragrance of lotus” is the famous cuisine of Bishange and won the championship in Wulai area.

There are many tourists visiting the hometown of hot springs. The restaurant once entertained a lady returning from Australia. She said she spent her honeymoon in Bishange Hotel so that she visited here again to recall the days when she were young. Surrounded by the green mountains and waters, and the fragrance of Wulai’s sakura, Bishange Hotel has witnessed many people’s lives reticently. 

酥炸溪蝦：採用當地新鮮溪蝦，炸得香酥脆，配上啤酒絕對讓人一口接一口。道地烏來美食。

Fried shrimps: Drinking beer with the crispy fried local fresh shrimps is the local Wulai gourmet.

福山桂竹筍：當地特產的桂竹筍，酸中帶香，解油膩助消化，是餐桌上不可或缺的綠葉。

Fushan Makino Bamboo shoots: local produced Makino bamboo shoots, saucy and fragrant, cutting the grease of a rich meal and help digestion, a necessary side dish served on the table.

蒜泥山豬肉：緊實山豬肉片成薄片，佐以蒜泥和香菜，爽口不油膩，相當下飯。

Boar meat with smashed Garlic: tight sliced boar meat with smashed garlic and parsley, fresh but not greasy.

白斬油雞：油雞肥而不膩，肉質厚實，又滑又嫩，配飯配湯都令人讚嘆。 不油膩，相當下飯。

Sliced steamed chicken: the chicken is fat but not greasy, smooth and tender; it is delicious to have it with rice and soup.

金針肉湯：清爽可口，香氣十足的金針花和肉絲煮成湯，佐以芹菜末，沒有過多調味，吃得到食物原味。

Daylily and Meat Soup: fresh and delicious, fragrant daylily stewed with sliced meat, with minced celeries, no excessive seasonings; the authentic flavor of the ingredients can be tasted.

清蒸鱒魚：碧山閣招牌菜，採用只能在清澈乾淨水質中成長的鱒魚，以最適合新鮮魚獲的清蒸方式烹煮，非常有春天氣息。

Steamed trout: Bishange’s signature dish; steamed trout growing up in a clear water; the dish has a smell of spring.

地址：新北市烏來區烏來街79號

電話：02-26616342

營業時間：周一至周日11:00~21:00（隔周二休）

周邊景點：烏來老街、烏來臺車站、雲仙樂園

特色：烏來養生套餐、烏來養生飲品系列、各式訂製桌宴

交通：國道3號安坑出口往新店方向沿臺9甲線至烏來；或新店客運849線到烏來總站步行約4分鐘。

Address：1F., No.79, Wulai St., Wulai Dist., New Taipei City 23341, Taiwan (R.O.C.)

Tel：02-26616342

Opening：Monday to Sunday 11:00~21:00 (official holiday: every Tuesday biweekly)

Surrounding Attractions：Wulai old street, Wulai wagon station, Yunxian entertainment park

Features：Wulai healthy combo meal, Wulai healthy beverage, pre-ordered meals banquet

Transportation：National Highway NO.3 à Ankeng Exità toward Xindianà Tai 9 Jia lineà Wulai; or taking Xindian bus, line 849, to Wulai station and walk for about 4 minutes.